D1 Mini WiFi Dev Board,Mini NodeMcu Lua 4M Bytes WLAN WiFi Internet Development Board Base on ESP8266 ESP-12F for Arduino, 100% Compatible with WeMos D1 Mini (Pack of 6)

These work great for my electronics projects, have not had any issues with them working just like they should. I use them with ESPHome and Home Assistant.

I have been using mostly the ESP8266-01 modules for my projects due to their small form factor. But the lack of GPIO pins makes them impractical for some applications. The traditional development boards give you a lot more, but they are also quite a bit bigger.Then I found these little gems. Not a whole lot bigger than the ESP-01 but with a whole lot more pins AND a built in USB interface AND a reset button. Perfect!Love that I can just plug it in and go without really needing any support components. I also like that they came with a variety of headers and sockets to allow different mounting options, saving a little extra cost.Now I just have to figure out what to do with the pile of ESP-01's I have laying around. ;-)

Have Tested 3 out of the 6 boards i received. All have ran a basic blink sketch without problem, AFTER I got them to flash. You must use a resistor to pull GPIO0(D3) to ground before trying to flash or it will not upload. I am not sure why this is necessary. I am using these to run WLED and it seems to be running without a problem for now.

I am experimenting using Wemos D1 Mini NodeMcu's with Home Assistant to automate a number of things in my house that I have always dreamed of automating. These little guys can take a beating and still keep working because they were designed with features like an on-board voltage regulator, internal pullup circuits, etc.The latest project is using the tiny DROK mini voltage regulator to power the 5 volt Wemos Di Minis from a 12 volt power supply, instead of a USB charger. The Di Minis are working fine with no extra components to eliminate ripple or spikes from the 5V Relay Module 2-Channel Relay Switch with Optocoupler Isolation.I have super-glued the D1 Minis and the voltage regulator to the top of the 2-channel relays. It makes a compact unit, and all of the connections to the D1 Minis are soldered to a header strip.If you like experimenting with wireless automation without using cloud services, these Wemos Di Mini look-alikes and Home Assistant software, with ESPhome integration, make it possible to control everything in your house, while keeping the communications within your own network.

I have two of these in hacked IKEA Vindriktning air sensors so I can use read their data into Home Assistant and use the air quality to trigger automations.They're nice cheap boards, easy to work on, and small enough to fit one into an Altoids tin or a vitamin bottle.

I use this board for a number of projects to control LED lights. Easy to program and use

You get plenty of boards for a decent price. They are a little backwards compared to the slimevr schematics for soldering. Pretty much mirrored to the examples on the schematics. They work and I can't find any complaints so far.

I included a photo comparing this with a genuine wemos lolin D1 v4 module to show the visible difference. That said, these are cheaper than the original even ordered direct from overseas, and they are ~mostly~ interchangeable.One note I learned the hard way early on, the i2c connector on the board is **BIG NOT** the same pinout as the Sparkfun Qwiic/Adafruit Stemma QT connectors it shares a role and form factor with. It's straightforward to change the wire order in the connectors, but make sure to take note of this before using it.The biggest issue for me was that the sleep jumper on the bottom of the board did not work. Solder bridging this, the unit still will not wake from deep sleep. I wasn't sure if this was a quirk with the v4 board design at first, but upon testing, it does work just fine on the wemos branded boards.Bridging RST and 16 does make deep sleep work, but serial upload becomes challenging. One option is bridging with a switch, to select either serial upload or sleep/wake.After some experimenting, I found that adding a 220ohm resistor between RST and 16, along with bridging the sleep jumper restored expected sleep/wake functionality without interrupting serial functionality.I've found these boards useful, I've just modded them with that resistor, and painted all the i2c connectors red to differentiate them from qwiic/stemma pinned connectors.