Litcessory Cut-End to Cut-End Extension Connector for Philips Hue/Solo Lightstrip (2in, 4 Pack, White - Micro 6-PIN V4 / Solo Lightstrip)

READ THIS: These ABSOLUTELY work perfectly on the newest generation light strip plus (perhaps they don't work directly connected to the controller but if you are doing the lights in series it's not really an issue since you will be cutting the free end of the first light. They do take a small bit of an art to get perfect (my first strip was a little challenging and has a touchy joint if bent to the extreme.). Here's how I used them. I carefully cut off the silicone insulation around the soldered line (removed a segment about a 1/2 inch above and below the solder). I did this with a razor blade and if you are careful it's easy since there is a good gap between the ribbon and the insulation. I then seated a new razor blade exactly in the middle of the soldered area and tapped it a few times with a hammer to get a cut started. Following that, I carefully sawed with another fresh razor blade. Razor blades seemed to work well as they don't deform the solder and make a clean cut if you are careful.--Just be careful and don't cut the ribbon or your fingers. The only other thing that might work is a razor sharp micro scissors (like a fly-tying scissors) but the hard solder will probably wreck them. It destroys the razor blades. Following the ribbon cutting, open up the end of the connector and use the tool to lift up all of the teeth. I put the cut cable in (one edge of the ribbon will fit under the edge of the connector) and press the teeth down making sure they are cleaning aligned onto each solder. I did have to adjust one or two teeth when they were a little mis aligned and could have caused a short, but that was easy.). Once aligned, I crimped the connector together (pliars did not work for me) and used my fingers to seat the tab on the side closing it. When I say crimp, I used the crimping end of a wire strippers to just firmly seat all of the teeth on the solders. Following this, I chose to cut off the wires at the end of the connector directly splice them to a cat5E cable that I ran between the different shelving areas. Using one pack of these connectors, a wire strippers, some Cat5E cable (only need 6 of the conductors) and some electrical tape, I was able to light three separate areas of cabinets located 6-7 feet apart from each other from ONE single light strip. Saved easily over a $100. These don't require soldering skills, merely a steady hand and a good set of eyes to make sure your crimping is clean. Yes, you can toast a light strip, but be smart and start with the last segment so that your practice cut doesn't toast the whole string. Take your time, don't rush, use multiple blades for each cut and you should have no issues. Honestly, it's a tiny bit time consuming, each joint maybe takes 15 minutes once you are good at things but honestly the longest time is stripping the cat5e and connector wires. Dare I say it was actually an enjoyable process to make everything work. JUST don't forget your wire color/order. I used the philips writing on the light strip as the "top" of my connector and then color coded cat5e wires from there. I did debate between these and the other cut-end to male/female extensions however they weren't available prime and limit length necessitating the purchase of the male/femal to rj45 connector. I did buy the rj45 connector to male/female although with this system those will only work with the last strand since that has the factory female end. Honestly, it is so easy to splice cat 5e cable so i don't really see a point in the rj45 connector unless you don't want to do two crimps. At that point, you have an extension set that is more expensive than this and you have to buy the rj45 connectors. Easier, sure, but worth $40? No. I would just use these and directly splice the cat5e.

Once connected, they do perform the task. However, 1) there are no instructions on the package or at the link in the QR code on the package 2) the FAQ tells the user to be certain to attach the connector on the back side of the strip, where the adhesive is, which is insulative, or at least not conductive. The connected strip(s) does not light up. 3) once the user figures out that they are in fact supposed to ignore the FAQ and slide the open connector into the plastic cover to connect it to the obvious pins for connection on the light side of the strip, they will find that (at least in my experience) 1 connector out of every bag of four does not connect correctly, needs to be left open as a result, and/or must be coerced into sending the right color by adjusting its angle or merely pushing straight down on the connection periodically while the lights are on so the user knows when the problem is fixed if one is lucky enough to have the connection be the right color after closing the door. If the user manages to get this far, the lights continue to function normally as though they had never been cut until the lights are touched, the object they’re attached to is touched, or any other situation you can imagine that might disturb a weak connection. So, if I were to give advice on how to successfully use this product, assume at least a 25% failure rate when purchasing so that you will have enough connectors to account for quality issues, and then enjoy your well routed lights.

This product is a life-saver for anyone using Hue LightStrip Plus in any fashion other than just a straight line. I used these to connect multiple cut LightStrip pieces together for under-cabinet lighting. The product works great, BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW HOW TO USE IT. 1. You have to cut the LightStrip through the metal connectors next to the cut line indicated on the LightStrip. If you cut at the cut line, then the strip is basically useless. You need the metal connectors for the snap extension. 2. You have to cut back the silicon covering on the LightStrip. I used a straight razor/exacto knife. Cut slowly and be careful. Don't slice through the strip when you're trimming the silicon. 3. The clips are direction specific in that the "door" of the clip needs to go around the back of the strip as opposed to the front. The lights will function either way, but when I first used the product (door around the front) the colors were wrong. I flipped the connector over, and everything worked like a charm. Don't be scared off by the negative reviews. It appears that many people who use these products have a misconception about how the products work.

A little fiddly to get the connectors to work but got them all working in the end. I would happily use these again as they do what they are meant for!

This product is very easy to use. I highly recommend for the HUE lightship. Simply cut the stirp and push these on, no cutting the rubber back.

Excelente producto si quieres unir tiras led philips. Al principio da miedo cortar por lo caras que son las tiras. Pero realmente es muy fácil de unir al no necesitar soldadura.

Diese Bewertung ist für die Verbinder zu Hue V4. Die Montage ist absolut einfach und narrensicher: Mit der Haushaltsschere an der korrekten Stelle den Hie Lightstrip V4 zertrennen. Dann jeweils ohne weitere Handgriffe den Adapter draufschieben undverriegeln -> Fertig. Es gab keinerlei Probleme bei der Montage noch danach (zumindest kurzfristig, langfristig steht noch aus). Die Adapter passen problemlos über das Innere LED-Band, als auch den äußeren Klarsicht-„Schlauch“ vom Hue. Quasi Plug&Play. Ich kann daher einige Rezensionen nicht verstehen, die angeben, dass einiges an Nacharbeit nötig sei; kann aber nicht ausschließen, dass es sich dabei um Montage am Hue V3 handelt. Für V4 Top!

These were perfect for doing right angles corners under bench lighting for my hue led strip