🔗 Unlock your Arduino’s full potential with USB Host Shield power!
The USB Host Shield by LM YN is a compact, lightweight expansion board designed to add USB host capabilities to Arduino UNO, MEGA 2560, 1280, and compatible models. It supports Google Android ADK, enabling seamless integration with Android devices for advanced project development. With broad compatibility and a 1-year warranty, it’s a reliable choice for makers and professionals pushing the boundaries of embedded systems.
Manufacturer | LM YN |
Part Number | 4352417068 |
Item Weight | 0.774 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 2.09 x 2.09 x 0.79 inches |
Item model number | 4352417068 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | 1 Year |
B**.
They now ship these with the cheaper / older chip set.
They now ship these with the cheaper/ older chip set that needs to be replaced. These won’t work with the XBOX 360 controller unless you do.
M**N
This is a good USB host shield clone
I have a working keyboard project using the official Arduino USB host shield. That shield has been discontinued, I have to look into clones for another project.Apparently, not all clones work, based on user reviews on the internet.I can now confirm this shield works as a drop-in placement for the discontinued official one, at least in my keyboard project. The board is shorter and has less feature but it does use the same MAX3421E chip. The solder work is not as polished as the original and the pins are a bit bent. There is no marking on the pins, unlike the original. However it's also cheaper than the original.Overall I'm happy to finally find a clone that works.
R**L
Remove solder from 3.3V bridge, then works fine
Like another reviewer, my board seemed to not work. I ran "board_qc" in Arduino IDE and could see the board was functioning but could not get any USB device to work with it. For people who normally don't solder... this is what you need to do, assuming your problem is the same as mine. The problem is the board is giving BOTH 3.3V and 5V to the USB. You can easily verify this by looking at the board. See my picture "Before removing solder". See how both the 3.3V and the 5V have bulges of solder? To fix this, remove the solder from the 3.3V bridge, it will then look like a crack... it won't be "bridged" anymore. I used a soldering iron and solder sucker (cheap plastic thing with spring to suck the solder up). I also used a third hand to hold the board and magnifying glass with light. The area is pretty small. You could also use a wick to suck up the solder, I just don't have one. When you are done it should look like my "after removing solder" picture. I'm not an experienced solder-er so please don't judge. :) I hope this helps someone else, I was really bummed when trying to get my Bluetooth to work with my PS4 controller for 2 hours, double checking my program, running diagnostics... Please look at your board and verify this before you lose your mind. Good luck! Oh and it appears to be working fine now.
S**H
Wrong chip on board
Avoid this shield. It was manufactured with an 'HC' chip and not the 'AHC' as printed on the circuit board and required to make this shield work properly.
C**T
Works great, Has ICSP headers on the board, plug and play. Very happy
I just got it so hard to tell how it will do in the long run but so far this thing is working great. Plugged it into a mega, loaded up a sketch, and tested it out talking to an xbox 360 controller with no issues. Plus unlike the sainsmart this one has the ICSP headers soldered on so it's literally plug and play.
M**C
Some come with solder jumpers, some don't
The first time I bought the board it work straight out of the package because the jumpers were soldered. However, when I ordered another two, they didn't come with the soldered jumpers. It's kind of annoying to solder 5volt VBUS and power.
G**R
Came defective, thankfully was able to fix without any damage
This product came with the 3.3V and 5V rails bridged due to a lack of understanding in configuration of the board. Thankfully it did not damage my Arduino or the onboard chips. After fixing this it seems to work properly.If anyone else is having issues, ensure that only one solder pad is bridged between the 3.3V and 5V options in the 'VUSB PWR' section.
E**L
Don’t buy
No even soldered