Sound Storm EV2.2000 Evolution 2000 Watt, 2 Channel, 2 to 8 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Car Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Control

Installed this in my 2006 Nissan Frontier 4x4. Added an under the rear seat Audio Enhancer 10" sub box with a Rockford Fosgate R2 shallow mount sub. The sub is a DVC 2 ohm, so ran it in series for a 4 ohm load and then wired the amp bridged mono. I really like the sub volume knob, ran that up front under the dash. This is more than enough for this little truck and I'm not joining any sound comps or SPL comps either. Sounds great with my ATOTO A6PF headunit, Pioneer TS-692C 2-way components upfront and TS-A1680 in the rear with 85Hz and 200Hz blockers on the fronts/rears. This my 2nd SSL amp, I have an EVO1500.1 running a Rockford Fosgate P2D4 12" in my car and it is more than enough for that sub. Great value, great features, zero issues.

I bought this to put in my truck. It was the perfect amp for my door component set of speaker's. works great an never goes out like some sound system amps will do after being used for a while. Buy it an you will love it. I promise you that.

This amp has a very nice look to it. It is constructed of mainly aluminum with a really nice looking finish. It has a lot of controls on it including high and low pass filters, bass boost, and gain control. It also includes a remote gain control that you can mount in the front of your car for quick and easy control of the gain. The features of this amp are comparable of much higher-priced amps, and seems very professional.I first connected this amp in bridged mode to two 250w RMS subs, and I was very disappointed with its performance. I tried changing the gain and bass boost, but I couldn't get the subs to hit hard without the amp going into protection mode (the internal circuit cuts off and will reset once you turn the amp off and back on). The sound quality was great, but the amp wasn't pushing much power at all. The amp is rated for 1000w at 4ohms when in bridged mode, and it was not going anywhere close to that.After reading a few reviews online I decided to hook the two subs up in stereo mode instead of bridged. After doing this I have yet to get the amp to go into protection mode! It does not push as much power as it did in bridged mode, but it sounds great and can get very loud! The sound quality of this amp is very close to amps that cost more than 2x its price.I really recommend this amp, but take into consideration that I could not get it to work well in bridged mode.

I purchased two of these for $37 each in 2013. Keeping in mind that I didn't really expect 1000w at $37, but 200w would be great, even 100w. I figured if I didn't like them I could return them and at that price, I have nothing to lose.Fast forward to today, 2019, I am still happy with this amp. Over the years I have had it connected to two different sets of 6x9 speakers, bridged on a single 10 inch sub, and bridged on two 12 inch subs. I have never had any problems with the two amps.Beware, all of the wires used to connect the amp play a vital role in the performance of the amp, all amps. Do your research! Also, the car's electrical system must be in great shape to get the most out of your amp.Would definitely buy again, even at today's price!My current setups: 1st amp is bridged on a 4 ohm Pioneer 10 inch sub (Mustang GT). 2nd amp is two channel with 2 Kicker 12 inch subs & 2 Pioneer 6x9 (1 12in sub & 1 6x9 in parallel (2 ohm) per channel) this is a temp setup until I get a new head unit (Lincoln LS).

This amplifier is complete garbage. Maybe it's because you get what you pay for, or maybe because it's actually a bad product. Either way, it only lasted 6 months, and during those six months, it was a huge pain. Upon installing it, it became immediately necessary to buy a ground loop noise isolator because it would make intolerable static with the engine on. Occasionally, it would make static without any inputs plugged in, despite being very well grounded. All the time, there would be a quiet static when any input cable was plugged in, and this occasionally got louder and more annoying. It was practically impossible to set the gain to where it should be because the static would become unbearable. Sometimes it would make loud static only after all audio has stopped. Sometimes, it would stay on with the ignition off, making a VERY loud, short noise after killing the engine. This was absolutely terrifying the first time it happened. Then I would have to pull apart the dash, wherever I'm parked, and keep a screwdriver in my car to disconnect the amp. I suppose it was shorting out internally somewhere between the power and the remote wires. It blew a fuse in my car twice. While I know that an amp should be wired right to the battery, it seemed unnecessary for this one considering that it is essentially the same power as an aftermarket stereo. So it was an unpleasant surprise when I found that my power locks weren't working so I had to change a fuse under the hood while parked in a bad neighborhood at night.My recommendation:Save your money for a real amplifier (maybe even a Class D one), this bottom shelf piece of junk is not worth it when you'll have to replace it within half a year anyway, especially with all the hassle it came with. Not to mention, you would have to pay $20 for a warranty replacement. I certainly wish I could have my $25 back to put towards something that will at least work semi-reliably.