Dorman 916-511XD Multiple Displacement Solenoid Compatible with Select Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Models (OE FIX)

I started feeling a shudder slowing down at around 20 mph {very new long block from the dealers}the car will shake like your in the wrong gear, but you have an automatic trans.. The ? I disconnected the MDS harness and the shudder was gone. FN B with a hole in it.Mine has no top end in this condition but the low end just driving around and freeway seems okay. I have an engine light and it will not pass smog disconnected.I have changed one solenoid because of oil leak. Changing the other 3 next week. One or all three are clogged is my bet.I also have a chronic wrong oil type mill code with no dash engine light.It is not a transmission problem.I will update.

Part has been installed for a few weeks works great.

This Dorman 916-511 XD Cylinder deactivation solenoid was specified for my 2008 Chrysler Aspen. After installation as a replacement for the original factory installed solenoid, this Dorman solenoid failed after just 75 miles Of driving. It triggered the Check Engine light and threw a trouble code to suggest the part had failed. After considerable removal labor, bench-testing confirmed the part was indeed faulty—working and not-working intermittently. Dorman’s marketing hype for this solenoid suggests it is of superior quality to the factory original (which had performed flawlessly for 12 years). I took a chance and ordered another Dorman 916-511 XD . I mean what were the odds that two new Dorman solenoids specified for my vehicle would almost immediately fail. Especially in a well-maintained, relatively low-mileage vehicle, without any oil issues. Installation, by the way, is no small task—requires much unbuttoning under the hood and removal of the intake manifold. Alas, the second Dorman solenoid failed even faster than the first one. Two new faulty Dorman solenoids and two intake manifold gasket kits and a whole lot of expensive labor later I was right back where I started. Three strikes you’re out. No, This time I opted to purchase the pricier “Made in USA” part from a Chrysler dealer, which in hindsight is what I should have done in the first place. I have over 500 miles on the dealer part without issue. Just for the record, I personally placed the Amazon order for the first Dorman solenoid. Another family member placed the second order. The only positive thing about our Dorman solenoid purchase experience was AMAZON. The ordered parts arrived with amazing speed. And upon return of the defective parts to Amazon, refunds were no-hassle smooth and quickly forthcoming. In fairness, honest feedback from me would read: FIVE STARS for AMAZON, zero stars for Dorman. With regard to their 916-511 XD Cylinder Deactivation Solenoid being compatible with a 2008, Hemi-powered 8 cylinder Chrysler Aspen. It ain’t !!!

Due to most of the others being made out of plastic , this is the better of them.It seems plastic gets hot and O rings leak.

Got his for my 5.7 since OE one broke do have to say being a metal design is way nice compared to plastic. Installed easy, but removing old one was a nightmare ended up using a small body dent puller parts store 15.00 and pulled it. This product is also way cheaper on here vs parts stor just keep in mind if you can go a couple daya without it its a better value on your pocket

I have ordered 6 of these Dorman "Upgraded" parts total, and 4 of them have failed. These last 2 tested fine, started fine, and then failed within 10 miles of home. I have spent more time this month under the hood of my truck than with my family. Many other reviews share similar experiences, and I had hoped to have a better experience. !JUNK! I will be buying Mopar from another source to get this problem solved, and my truck back to running correctly. !WILL NOT BUY THESE AGAIN!

My 2007 Dodge Charger RT 5.7 liter.

I bought these to replace a failed OE solenoid on my `06 Charger @ ~65k miles. Thought I should do all 4 since they improved the design and was going to do 95% of the work with disassembly anyway. 3 of those 4 failed within a 300 miles or so. 1st one didn't get out of the garage bay before it need to be replaced. 2nd after about 200 miles. 3rd one just failed after another 100 miles. I love working on my car, but enjoy having a reliable driver even more. I guess I will be going back to Mopar and buying OEM. Tempting to buy any of the dozen off-brand offered here for ~$20 a piece but assume they won't last long at all. As tempting as it is to just do an MDS delete and be done with it, but gas just topped $6 a gallon and dropping my MPG from the mid 20 to lower teens is a hard pill to swallow.

Très bien fait bonne qualité reste a installé

Those MD'S selenoid are not only defective, but they are also very dangerous for your engine. I installed 4 of them, I tested them all before installing them. All were working (easy to test, just need to apply 12v to the pins). Less than 5 km engine started misfiring on cylinder 7 in I was hearing some kind of banging from the engine. The reason it was banging is because the lifter was engaging and disengaging and banging on the camshaft because the MDS selenoid was stuck in the wrong position (thus oil pressure applied to the lifter pin was kind of half, engaging en disengaging ). It might have made damaged (marks) on the camshaft, camshaft still fine but if I was far from my house could lead to a catastrophic failure. Stick with Mopar original MDS. I still have 3 others installed on my engine but I think I will return them. Btw I tested the defective MDS after removal with 12v and it's not moving, and the valve inside seems to be stuck in the middle. I did an oil change like asked before replacing the MDS.BUY ORIGINAL MOPAR ONLY, I know they are expensive but are the only ones that work properly

Seem to be a great product. Installation went great. The only thing i'm concert about is the o'ring size.those on my old part was thicker by a bit. I don't know if it's because they soak in oil since 2007

I tested it with with a 9v battery and and then with 12v it did not work so I had to return it. They should be making a large clicking sound when power is run to them. a 9V has enough power to do but you can hook to your battery as well. There should be a large clicking sound and you should be able to see the rod in it move. Sadly the one I got this time failed the test and looking at other reviews you have at least a 50% chance of getting a dud so test it right out of the box NEVER assume they will work right out of the box or your in for some problems

Neither like or dislike.