Lewis Chainsaw Winch Model 400

The Lewis Winch is an awesome bit of kit , does exactly what it says it does. Everyone should have one

If you need a portable powered winch, your options are severely limited. Honda makes a capstan winch for pulling fiber rope where this is a reel winch pulling wire rope. Maybe the Honda is a better choice, but I haven't run one and can't say.There is a serious problem with the winch that has to do with connecting it to your chainsaw. I think it's much better to use it with a chainsaw that has an internal clutch because you can use the adapters that come with it to connect directly. But chances are your saw has an external clutch so you have to use the drive chain. The motor generates more torque when you're running the winch than when you're sawing wood, so the bar slips up and down. If it slips one way the chain flies off; if it slips the other way the chain tightens up so much it won't slide along the bar. You'd strip the threads on the studs before you'd get it tight enough to stay in place. So you should be prepared to make some spacers out of 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar to put inside the bar's slot where the bar studs go: drill holes in them for the bar studs.Another problem I'm having is that the wire rope developed tight coils after a few uses. I can't just let the wire rope loose after unhooking from a load because it will spring together in a tangled mess. I don't know what caused that or what the manufacturer could do to prevent it, but it's a big problem anyway.Another problem is threading the wire rope back onto the reel. Under load, when the rope is threading on one side, it takes a lot of muscle power to aim the winch to get the rope back toward the middle or over to the other side.The manufacturer advertises that you can get more pulling power if you have a bigger motor. So bigger is better, right? But sooner or later you're going to pull on a load that doesn't budge. So now you have to get the tension off by releasing the clutch so you can unhook from the load. But if you have too much tension you can only release the clutch by pounding on the handle. Normally you push on the handle or tap on it to move a tension pin out of a detente and then turn it. But if there are thousands of pounds of tension in the wire rope then you have to hammer on the clutch to release it. What all that means is that you probably don't want to use a saw much bigger than 3.5 cubic inches or 60 cc.Should you buy one? If you're looking at this item it's probably because you need something like it. For all its problems, I don't know of something better. Maybe the Honda.

OK, I bought a Lewis Winch, had Masterpull make line with a safety hook, and based on their advice bought a Husqvarna 372 XP powerhead.1. Direct drive hookup is the best solution. But only some chainsaws allow that. If they know which models of chain saws can fit direct drive, why not tell people?2. The older Husqvarnas have a needle bearing assembly which has to be removed to grease. Which requires removing a circlip. Which immediately flys away. Ideally the best saw would allow direct drive hookup & be easy to grease the needle bearing.3. I'm surprised so few winch folks refer to block & tackle arrangements.4. Assembling the Lewis is fun. Hold 2 unbalanced heavy things together just so with one hand upside-down while trying to squeeze your other hand's fingers into a small slot to thread nuts on. There are probably tricks of the trade but I suppose they're a secret, too. I built up a stack of stuff to put under the winch to help hold it in place.Would nylock nuts offer any advantage? I would never mount/unmount a Lewis in the woods. Too many small parts to lose.If you're out in the woods, a gas powered winch is a powerful tool. Come-Alongs are cheap, lightweight, relatively weak, but sloooooow.Cheers. :)

This is a great tool but with attached power head it can be heavy and awkward to use. Two must haves: work gloves and hearing protection. Several pinch points will quickly convince you to wear gloves. You will be standing over top of or very close to the winch when operating and the saw motor can be deafening so use ear plugs or muffs. Have the sawhead and winch assembled before going to the field; assembly on the ground is hard on the back and a tricky.

I have used one for a number of years and you have to be creative as its not like jumping on a half million dollar yarder. It works great but you need to think through what you are doing. The clutch pin will not disengage if you are under tension ,say if something heavy hangs up and you keep horsing on it. We use a small chain binder between the saw winch and anchor strap if we are double lined on a log, and pop it open to create slack.. Otherwise for game and smaller stuff just jump/heave on the line to get slack. Good product for what it does. You always need a spare block in the heavy bush and some straps to change direction on the line. Nothing helps like a block up as high as you can get to give you more pull as lift overcomes friction.