Kasa Smart 3 Way Switch HS210, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required , white

Love these smarts switches! Why?Because they just work!Power outages, wifi problems, you name it as soon as they are able, they reconnect and just work as if nothing happened. I have over 20 of these installed in my house and have been totally trouble free since the spring of 2022. I have had them tied to google home and Alexa through multiple accounts it has been totally seamless.However, If I am being critical I would point out the mechanical side of the switch feels somewhat cheap and doesn't not give a satisfying click when pressed. Also the switch is quite bulky on the backside make sure you have plenty of space in your switch boxes, making room for this extra bulk is the most time consuming and tedious part of the install if your boxes are already crowded

This smart switch comes with two sets of switches. Each set includes two wire nuts, two mounting screws, snap-on face plate, wire labeling stickers, and the switch itself. Install is relatively straightforward. I was able to install these in a 3 way dimmer switch configuration and a 3 way configuration. For both, I made sure to install the smart switch at the switch with the hot wire from the main home circuit, rather than any hot wires coming from other switches in the setup. If you install in any of the switches after this first switch then I believe it won't work. Only one switch is needed - the other switches can stay dumb. This also works for a single pole switch (just wire one of the travellers).For the 3 way dimmer, the other switch is the dumb dimmer switch. It works fine after the install. For the 4 way switch, the intermediate switch is the four way and the last switch is another 3 way switch. I also didn't touch these and they worked fine. To find which switch is the first switch, I voltage tested the common wire on the switch (usually has a black screw, bottom right side of the switch when facing it) while operating the switches. The common wire for the first switch will never go to zero (when measuring between it and ground or using a line tester). In my house, this first switch was also usually in the largest gang outlets or near areas with lots of wiring.If your old switch has the wires inserted into a hole in the switch rather than screwed on the side, you have to find a small paperclip and stick it in the even smaller hole next to it. Then you can pull the wire out.The neutral and ground wires in the smart switch are permanently fixed to the smart switch. They can be wired into any existing bundles of neutral (white) and ground (exposed copper) wires in the outlet box. My outlet box had these already bundled together and secured using a wire nut. I just unscrewed the wire nut and added the cables from the switch.The remaining line/hot wire (black) and traveller wire connections are screwed onto the smart switch. There are no wires coming off the smart switch itself for these. I do not believe it matters which traveller wire goes to which terminal. Typically the traveller wires will be bundled into one sheathed wire in the outlet box, while the line/hot wire will be separate. My traveller wires were colored red and black. The traveller wires are screwed onto the top of the switch, and the line wire to the right side.I found the smart switches to be a lot larger than the dumb switches, but they do just barely fit into the outlet box. I had to chip away some drywall compound from my outlet boxes to get them to fit. If your outlet box is metal, you might want to insulate the traveller wire terminals, as I think they could contact the metal box. Setup is very easy with the app. No QR codes to scan. Just go near the switch and follow the instructions in the app. It does not use Bluetooth either. It seems to search for a Wifi broadcast from the switch. For some of my switches I had trouble connecting the first time, but a retry, or reset of the switch (using a small button on the front of the switch) would allow it to work. Alexa integration is automatic once you link the Kasa phone app.The switch itself is not a toggle like a normal switch, but simply a clicky button. When off, a dim white ring lights up the switch. Below the switch are very small reset and restart buttons. Although I only have one switch per three way or four way setup, the app can still tell if my light is on or off.Finally, these have no delay. I have some Kasa smart plugs plugged into switched outlets. With these smart plugs, there is a slight delay when turning on the switch and waiting for the lights to come on. However, with the smart switches, there is no delay. I assume this is because the smart plugs actually lose power while the switch doesn't. I am very happy with these switches. The setup and use is very easy. Install was very straightforward, even though I had not done any switch installs before. These are one of the cheapest smart switches on the market, but they perform excellently.

These 3 Way work. Now, I learned you don't "have" to put each one on the same circuit, so if you are okay going against the TP Link recommendation, since they come in pairs, you can put 1 on a plug and have it work, and put the other one on a different plug and name it separately, and BAM you have two 3 way circuits that are on your Alexa control (and Kasa App control etc). I do have some "4 way" switches.....and they area PAIN. I thought they were 3 way, and one of them I got to work (don't ask me how, ha) but the other I cannot. They have an extra wire, and it's a huge pain in the rump. In general, it's awesome though. I copied the review from the "smart plugs" as well, because all of the information is essentially the same, except for the install which for the switch you have to put in the wall switch (TURN OFF BREAKER< HA) and the plugs are just plug in and then the lamp or whatever goes in the plug. The switches you have to know how to wire in a replacement switch in the wall.I will say, these switches are much bigger than just a switch (inside the wall box). I've done other timer switch replacement, and that's the norm. The problem is a lot of these boxes have TONS of wiring stuffed into them. On a few, especially ones that have 3 or more switches in one long box, I've had to pull all of them and trim wires to make them fit. I didn't trim where they weren't workable, but I did get a ton of the excess removed.These plugs work....that’s it, they work. All of the TP Link smart home plugs and Switches work, and work flawlessly that I can see. The Kasa app is great, works flawlessly as well.I have 8 of these so far, and they are mixed in my home with wall switches (TP Link switch and 3 way switches) to all run with Kasa app that is TP link that then works with the Alexa Amazon Echo's throughout the home.These things are truly plug and play. You plug them in, open the Kasa App, and "add device" and bam, it's super easy to follow the directions and add to WiFi in the home. Then open Alexa App on the phone and all of these TP Link items are there in the Smart Home section. It just works, and works flawlessly.The entire system, I add "Routines and Scenes" and you can do all kinds of cool things. In the Alexa App the Routines, I can turn on lights and play the weather on the Echo and then have it start music. I can say "Alexa, turn on the Accent Lighting" and it turns OFF the ones that I want off and don't think are accent, and turns on the ones I say to turn on, and it is super easy.The Kasa app also has timers as much as you want. You can set "turn on" and the time, and create as many as you want, and turn off the same. My Christmas lights indoor and outdoor were all on these indoors and the plugs for outdoors are on switches, so bam those all worked on timers there. Same with my patio outdoor lights.The "only" glitch I've had in the months of using these......I switched Broadband Providers from Uverse to Spectrum. The new WiFi router, I set up the SSID to the exact same, same password, and it "should" have all just connected and never had a glitch. After 2 hours of weirdness, and trying to reset one of them, and get the TP Link to work.....I spent more time online and realized these are 2.4Ghz ONLY. I had set up the 5Ghz Wifi to be the original. I went in and made the 2.4G the old one, and BAM, everything worked FLAWLESSLY again. So, the 5Ghz wave I made the SSID-5G and all was right with the world once again, ha.My wife said this was silliness......she also said that when I got our first DVR 20 years ago......now the DVR is full of HGTV.....and she admits these things are great.