POLYMAKERPolymax Tough PC Filament 1.75mm, Black Polycarbonate Filament 1.75mm 0.75kg Cardboard Spool - PC Filament 3D Printer Polycarbonate Filament PC, Tough & High Heat Resistant

I do a lot of work with PC and PC-blends as I push the boundaries of what can be manufactured as a functional part with a 3d printer. I've probably tried/used PC from 5 or so different manufacturers. My general comments are this:1) Polycarbonate (PC) is the strongest and heat resistant of all the materials that can be printed with consumer grade printers. For hard, strong, functional parts you won't find better. (P.S. If you have a commercial grade printer you can play with other even higher performance polymers like Ultem, PPSU, PEEK, etc.)2) Of the PC products out there this one is far-and-away the best. In general PC is a difficult material to work with primarily due to its desire for very high temperatures and its constant desire to warp. Polymaker really has this stuff dialed in, in that it is much easier to work with, while still retaining all of the strength (possibly more) of pure PC and about 90% of the heat tolerance of pure PC.Printing tips:PC loves heat. Polymaker recommends 230-270*C which is actually a hint that they have done something with this blend since more normal PC wants to be printed around 300*C. I print PC-Max at 270*C and get great layer adhesion, surface finish, even at print speeds up around 60-70 mm/s. Just like it loves a high nozzle temp it seems to want the bed at about 90-100*C, and more importantly for sufficiently complex geometries or large parts it likes a heater build chamber. I have a controlled chamber that I can get into the mid 60*C range and it works very well. I print directly on a PEI build surface with nothing more than a few mm brim around the part and don't really have any issues with it not sticking to the build surface, however PC is known to warping and not sticking to the surface so if you just can't get it to stick try build tak or an ABS slurry to keep it bonded to the surface.Be careful when removing supports and such from PC after printing. Its a VERY hard material and little edges will cut you pretty easily.The only negatives I have are really that while it does have a great HDT compared to other materials it doesn't *quite* have the heat resistance of pure PC (I tested a few samples and suspect the HDT is around 115*C at <.5Mpa). Additionally Polymaker's supply chain seems to be a bit spotty, the stuff will be in stock for a month or so then be back out of stock for a month or two.. which can be an issue if you are relying on it for functional, sale-able parts.In conclusion, PC-Max is the best PC out there. Kudos to Polymaker keep up the good work!

This is the strongest filament I’ve printed so far. It’s good stuff. I used a Creality K1C printer and had to max the bed temp at 100C and use plenty of glue. I printed straight after opening the filament but I did print from a dryer box. It printed just fine with smooth layer lines indicating the place that manufactures the filament ensures it’s dry prior to vacuum sealing it. I will be buying more in the future.One thing to note, this is not a material you want to print often, especially if you don’t have proper air filtration. The package clearly states this material can cause cancer. I had my printer near an open window for ventilation, I didn’t notice much of an odor and nothing smelled toxic. Polycarbonate is known for being tough to print, this is my first time printing it and it went smoothly. I think that’s partially due to this being good quality filament.

This was my first roll of PC and wow! I am super impressed! This is the toughest filament I have ever used. I decided to get an enclosure for my Ender 3 S1 Pro before trying it as I heard it loves heat. My first print was perfect and every print so far has also be perfect. I am using a stock Ender 3 S1 Pro, it has an all metal hot end with direct drive extruder. I am also using the stock PEI build plate, I started with a clean build plate but did add some glue stick and that seems to work just fine. Hot end 290c, bed 100c, fan 50%, layer height 0.1. Its not cheap but if you need a very tough end product you will love this stuff. I'll be ordering more.

Fairly hard to print without an enclosure without warping. Need a big brim and I used some other custom settings to get better adhesion. Keep in mind this was on an Ender 3 so take that for what it's worth. Consistent once you figure it out and keep it dry. Used this for RC differentials, and it did crack. One of the more stressful use cases, but PCCF has been working better since then.

Polymax PC is one of my new favorite filaments. While it's a little challenging to get dialed in compared to stuff like PLA, it's ability to make tough and functional parts is hard to beat. Being polycarbonate, prints in this material are very tough and exhibit high heat resistance on par with quality nylon filament. However, it's far stiffer than nylon which is a desirable property in many prints. With proper settings and print environment, this material prints warp free with minimal stringing and excellent layer adhesion. Bridging ability is rather poor, but supports help and can be removed with minimal effort.To print warp-free, an enclosure is highly recommended. A build plate temp of 100c helped even large, solid parts stay adhered to the build plate. A layer fan is detrimental to anything but very small parts with fine detail. PC-Max parts can be annealed by placing them in a 100c (212 F) oven for 1-2 hours. and then letting them cool slowly with the oven door closed.My print settings (heavily modded, enclosed Ender 3 using a Titan Aero and a Layerlock build surface):Hotend/Bed: 260/100Retraction: 0.75mm @ 30mm/sLinear Advance Factor (for direct drive extrusion): 0.06Speed: 30mm/s @ 200mm/s accel with a jerk of 10mm/sOther Settings: Combing off, brim with 5mm width, Z-hop enabled.

If you need a mechanically sound part this is the stuff. Prints waaaay easier than PETG and is much stronger. Overhangs are easy with a little fan.