---
product_id: 4295062
title: "Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32\" to 3/4\" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF"
brand: "drill doctor"
price: "HK$453"
currency: HKD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Drill Doctor"
url: https://www.desertcart.hk/products/4295062-large-bit-chuck-sharpen-3-32-to-3-4-bits
store_origin: HK
region: Hong Kong
---

# Fits 3/32" to 3/4" bits Direct replacement for 750X model Durable, hand-powered precision chuck Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF

**Brand:** drill doctor
**Price:** HK$453
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Sharpen bigger, sharper, better — upgrade your drill game now!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF by drill doctor
- **How much does it cost?** HK$453 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.hk](https://www.desertcart.hk/products/4295062-large-bit-chuck-sharpen-3-32-to-3-4-bits)

## Best For

- drill doctor enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted drill doctor brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Built to Last:** Robust design with recommended maintenance for extended durability and peak performance.
- • **Precision Engineering:** Hand-powered chuck ensures smooth, accurate sharpening every time.
- • **Seamless Compatibility:** Perfect direct replacement for Drill Doctor 750X, 500X, and XP models—no hassle, just upgrade.
- • **Effortless Bit Alignment:** Center slot and adjustable relief angles let you customize sharpening for flawless edges.
- • **Expand Your Sharpening Range:** Supports large bits up to 3/4", unlocking more project possibilities.

## Overview

The Drill Doctor Large Bit Chuck is a precision replacement accessory compatible with 500X and XP models, designed to hold and sharpen drill bits ranging from 3/32" to 3/4". Engineered for durability and smooth operation, it extends your sharpening capabilities beyond standard limits, backed by a 3-year warranty and trusted by professionals seeking consistent, high-quality bit maintenance.

## Description

Drill Doctor “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” As a company we believe in eliminating waste and using our resources, respectfully to their full potential. Drill Doctor “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” As a company we believe in eliminating waste and using our resources, respectfully to their full potential. Drill Bit Sharpeners Visit the Store Drill Bit Sharpeners Visit the Store Accessories Visit the Store Accessories

Review: Good tool; efficient and durable if properly maintained (some suggestions included here). - I needed a new chuck because the original was badly worn, altering bit shape. It made sense to get the one that takes up to 3/4" bits. After comparing the two, the only difference is that the end of the standard chuck is constricted to limit bit size to 1/2". If my old chuck wasn't worn, I would have been fine w/ just cutting off the end. To verify, I did cut the end off my old one, and it functioned as well w/ 3/4" bits as the new one. If you do that, just be sure to back up the metal vanes by opening the chuck before you make the cut, and to extend the marks for masonry bits on the end of the chuck down along the sides, as you'll be cutting the old ones off. The Instructions that come w/ my DD500x were not as complete as they could be. Here are a few things I've learned that may be helpful. 1. Lubricate the chuck. Applying a small amount of grease around the chuck shoulder where it rides on the cam (at the surface that faces toward the grinding wheel). This will allow the chuck to slide more smoothly as it is turned, making for both easier sharpening and reduced wear. I also apply grease to the threads that attach the two portions, making it a bit easier to tighten and release before and after sharpening, but that may be overkill. Had I lubed the surface that contacts the metal cam much earlier, my chuck would be in better working order now. They probably will still need replacement at some point of use, but should last a lot longer. Be aware that the cam shoulder will pick up grit over time, so clean and re-grease it periodically, and do the same w/ the interior, but less frequently. Be careful to align the vanes properly to reassemble, and don't force it. It goes together very easily. 2. When aligning a bit in the chuck, I use the center slot as instructed. If the relief angle on the bit is too flat, I go one slot counterclockwise and regrind. In a few cases, I've had to go two or even three slots CCW to get the right relief angle. I do look at the clock angles shown in the instructions, but find it much easier to just look at the relief angle, especially on small bits. W/ a few bits, I've had the relief angle come out differently on one side than the other. In this case, I'll re-seat the bit once in the same slot and try again. If that doesn't correct it, I'll re-seat it one slot CCW, and re-grind. I like to check the bit after a few passes, and will often re-align a larger bit after the first several passes to make sure it's centered and to take a little more off the leading edge. I find it important to tighten the chuck very securely, otherwise the bit may to slip back in the chuck as you're grinding. If grinding reduces and/or stops after just a few passes, the bit has probably slipped back in the chuck. You can tell by putting it back in the alignment tool and checking for a gap. Rubber gloves give a very good grip and make a big difference here. I tighten the chuck while in the alignment tool enough that it won't slip, then remove it and tighten very securely w/ two gloved hands. 3. When sharpening, I start w/ the white mark just left of the cam, then turn clockwise and come around, using light even pressure and making sure to keep the chuck centered, not tilted, and held lightly against the cam. I added a piece of white tape above one of the white marks so that I know which mark I'm starting on, so that I can finish w/ an equal number of passes on both sides. If I'm sharpening and hear that a lot more is coming off on one side of the bit compared to the other, I'll make a few extra passes on that side until the sound is about even, indicating better symmetry at the bit. The first portion of grinding will be the leading edge of the bit, so if you're trying to increase the relief angle, you'll want to hear "heavier" grinding during the latter portion of the pass. I also want to hear some grinding right at the start of the first few passes to assure I'm sharpening the leading edge. After those first few passes, the grinding will start later in the pass. Though the instructions say to continue until grinding stops, I find that three or four passes w/ small bits at light pressure is adequate, and about twice that w/ large bits, unless I'm changing relief angle or point angle. Be aware that, though there are two angles marked in the adjustment window, you can custom set the angle in between, and even a bit beyond each end. 4. W/ smaller bits, it's sometimes harder to get a balanced split point. Note that the side you're grinding is at the bottom of the bit. I start w/ a few seconds on each side, then compare. I prefer not to take it all the way to a point, but leave it a little short of the point on each side. It takes very little time on small bits; better to start w/ just a few seconds at most w/ light pressure until you see what you're getting. If I can't get it to grind the split point as deeply on one side of the bit, I'll reach through the chuck hole w/ a small screwdriver or similar and press the bit down against the grinding wheel to assist. 5. It's good to blow out the unit w/ a compressor from time to time, and don't forget that the screw that holds the grinding wheel on is left-hand thread. I lost the wrench they include, but a properly sized channel locks works just fine.
Review: Drill Doctor - Started Sharping with Drill Doctor Sharpener. Works perfect.

## Features

- Optional large bit chuck for models XP and 500X.
- Direct replacement for 750X.
- Holds bits from 3/32-3/4 inches
- This chuck will NOT fit models 350X, SB, or any Classic Drill Doctor sharpeners.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B000BKY60E |
| Best Sellers Rank | #159,079 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #151 in Power Drill Chucks |
| Brand | Drill Doctor |
| Brand Name | Drill Doctor |
| Capacity | 0.75 Inches |
| Compatible Devices | Drilling Machine |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 295 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00662949037440 |
| Handle Type | powered |
| Included Components | DA70100PF |
| Item Diameter | 0.75 Inches |
| Item Type Name | Drill Bit SharpenerDrill Bit Sharpener, Accessory |
| Item Weight | 0.29 Pounds |
| Lock Type | Manual (keyless) |
| Manufacturer | Drill Doctor |
| Manufacturer Part Number | SA01751PA |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | 3 year warranty on material and workmanship |
| Material | Chromium Vanadium Steel |
| Material Type | Chromium Vanadium Steel |
| Model Number | SA01751PA |
| Thread Size | 3/8 inch |
| UPC | 662949037440 662949031059 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Drill Doctor
- **Compatible Devices:** Drilling Machine
- **Item Diameter:** 0.75 Inches
- **Item Weight:** 4.64 ounces
- **Material:** Chromium Vanadium Steel

## Images

![Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/617I5VhHIrL.jpg)
![Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/7113aCXyGtL.jpg)
![Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81gxsq81lkL.jpg)
![Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71IPBDvJTYL.jpg)
![Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81C-8lcrgNL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: I have a Drill Doctor Model XPK,will this large chuck from 1/2 to 3/4 mod. SA01751PA fit my unit ,Thanks**
A: The drill holder for the 1/2 and smaller, and the 1/2 to 3/4, have the same body size.  I have the 500X model and not the XPK.You might e-mail Drill Doctor @ tech@drilldoctor.com

**Q: Drill Doctor 250, where can I get a replacement chuck?**
A: Look on Amazon, Ebay, do a search on the internet and you will have multiple items from multiple sources to choose from.

**Q: I have a 750X , will this fit?**
A: Yes

**Q: will it cut tin roofing**
A: This holds the drill bit for use with a drill doctor sharpener.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good tool; efficient and durable if properly maintained (some suggestions included here).
*by K***R on October 7, 2023*

I needed a new chuck because the original was badly worn, altering bit shape. It made sense to get the one that takes up to 3/4" bits. After comparing the two, the only difference is that the end of the standard chuck is constricted to limit bit size to 1/2". If my old chuck wasn't worn, I would have been fine w/ just cutting off the end. To verify, I did cut the end off my old one, and it functioned as well w/ 3/4" bits as the new one. If you do that, just be sure to back up the metal vanes by opening the chuck before you make the cut, and to extend the marks for masonry bits on the end of the chuck down along the sides, as you'll be cutting the old ones off. The Instructions that come w/ my DD500x were not as complete as they could be. Here are a few things I've learned that may be helpful. 1. Lubricate the chuck. Applying a small amount of grease around the chuck shoulder where it rides on the cam (at the surface that faces toward the grinding wheel). This will allow the chuck to slide more smoothly as it is turned, making for both easier sharpening and reduced wear. I also apply grease to the threads that attach the two portions, making it a bit easier to tighten and release before and after sharpening, but that may be overkill. Had I lubed the surface that contacts the metal cam much earlier, my chuck would be in better working order now. They probably will still need replacement at some point of use, but should last a lot longer. Be aware that the cam shoulder will pick up grit over time, so clean and re-grease it periodically, and do the same w/ the interior, but less frequently. Be careful to align the vanes properly to reassemble, and don't force it. It goes together very easily. 2. When aligning a bit in the chuck, I use the center slot as instructed. If the relief angle on the bit is too flat, I go one slot counterclockwise and regrind. In a few cases, I've had to go two or even three slots CCW to get the right relief angle. I do look at the clock angles shown in the instructions, but find it much easier to just look at the relief angle, especially on small bits. W/ a few bits, I've had the relief angle come out differently on one side than the other. In this case, I'll re-seat the bit once in the same slot and try again. If that doesn't correct it, I'll re-seat it one slot CCW, and re-grind. I like to check the bit after a few passes, and will often re-align a larger bit after the first several passes to make sure it's centered and to take a little more off the leading edge. I find it important to tighten the chuck very securely, otherwise the bit may to slip back in the chuck as you're grinding. If grinding reduces and/or stops after just a few passes, the bit has probably slipped back in the chuck. You can tell by putting it back in the alignment tool and checking for a gap. Rubber gloves give a very good grip and make a big difference here. I tighten the chuck while in the alignment tool enough that it won't slip, then remove it and tighten very securely w/ two gloved hands. 3. When sharpening, I start w/ the white mark just left of the cam, then turn clockwise and come around, using light even pressure and making sure to keep the chuck centered, not tilted, and held lightly against the cam. I added a piece of white tape above one of the white marks so that I know which mark I'm starting on, so that I can finish w/ an equal number of passes on both sides. If I'm sharpening and hear that a lot more is coming off on one side of the bit compared to the other, I'll make a few extra passes on that side until the sound is about even, indicating better symmetry at the bit. The first portion of grinding will be the leading edge of the bit, so if you're trying to increase the relief angle, you'll want to hear "heavier" grinding during the latter portion of the pass. I also want to hear some grinding right at the start of the first few passes to assure I'm sharpening the leading edge. After those first few passes, the grinding will start later in the pass. Though the instructions say to continue until grinding stops, I find that three or four passes w/ small bits at light pressure is adequate, and about twice that w/ large bits, unless I'm changing relief angle or point angle. Be aware that, though there are two angles marked in the adjustment window, you can custom set the angle in between, and even a bit beyond each end. 4. W/ smaller bits, it's sometimes harder to get a balanced split point. Note that the side you're grinding is at the bottom of the bit. I start w/ a few seconds on each side, then compare. I prefer not to take it all the way to a point, but leave it a little short of the point on each side. It takes very little time on small bits; better to start w/ just a few seconds at most w/ light pressure until you see what you're getting. If I can't get it to grind the split point as deeply on one side of the bit, I'll reach through the chuck hole w/ a small screwdriver or similar and press the bit down against the grinding wheel to assist. 5. It's good to blow out the unit w/ a compressor from time to time, and don't forget that the screw that holds the grinding wheel on is left-hand thread. I lost the wrench they include, but a properly sized channel locks works just fine.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Drill Doctor
*by T***C on April 9, 2026*

Started Sharping with Drill Doctor Sharpener. Works perfect.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Nice piece.
*by B***G on March 11, 2024*

Exactly like the Bit Chuck that comes with 500x except it has a wider hole and you can sharpen bits up to 3/4 or 19.05 mm drill bits. If I had it to do over I would have gotten the 570 it already comes with this large bit chuck. The 570 is more but my the time you order this part the price will be close to the same. The question is does it sharpen bitts? I sharpened about 30 bits. I drilled before I would sharpen drill bit and then test after I sharpened. This thing works better than great it is Awesome! The makings of the holder is mostly plastic but the chuck that holds the drill bit are metal and gets the job done. Buy with confidence.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Drill Doctor Large Bit Chuck Sharpen 3/32" to 3/4" Bits for Models 500x, and XP. Replacement for 750X DA70100PF
- Drill Doctor DA31320GF 180 Grit Diamond Replacement Wheel for 350X, XP, 500X and 750X
- Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener - 3/32" to 1/2" - Electric Sharpener - High Speed & Portable - For Steel, Masonry, Carbide & Tin-Coated Drill Bits - Adjustable 118° or 135° Angle

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*Product available on Desertcart Hong Kong*
*Store origin: HK*
*Last updated: 2026-06-03*