---
product_id: 5449452
title: "140033 Ignition SuperCoil , Yellow"
brand: "accel"
price: "HK$349"
currency: HKD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Accel"
url: https://www.desertcart.hk/products/5449452-140033-ignition-supercoil-yellow
store_origin: HK
region: Hong Kong
---

# 10-15% more energy output High-temp epoxy for shock & vibration resistance Direct plug replacement, bolt-on install 140033 Ignition SuperCoil , Yellow

**Brand:** accel
**Price:** HK$349
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Ignite your Ford’s true potential—because your ride deserves the power to lead, not follow.

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** 140033 Ignition SuperCoil , Yellow by accel
- **How much does it cost?** HK$349 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.hk](https://www.desertcart.hk/products/5449452-140033-ignition-supercoil-yellow)

## Best For

- accel enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted accel brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Plug & Play Upgrade:** Direct OEM coil replacement with vibrant ACCEL yellow housing and brass contacts for easy, hassle-free installation.
- • **Precision Engineered Fit:** Specifically designed for 2004-2008 Ford 4.6L & 5.4L 3-valve modular engines—no guesswork, just perfect compatibility.
- • **Power Boosted Performance:** Unlock 10-15% more power and torque for quicker starts and smoother acceleration.
- • **Durability Meets Innovation:** High-temp epoxy and silicone magnetic steel cores resist heat and vibration, ensuring long-lasting reliability.
- • **Eliminate Misfires & Hesitation:** Experience instant throttle response and a smoother idle with reduced engine misfires.

## Overview

The ACCEL 140033 Ignition SuperCoil delivers 10-15% more energy than stock coils, engineered specifically for 2004-2008 Ford 4.6L and 5.4L 3-valve modular engines. Featuring advanced bobbin technology, high-temp epoxy for durability, and direct plug replacement design, it reduces misfires, improves throttle response, and enhances acceleration and fuel efficiency. A bolt-on upgrade that transforms your engine’s performance with reliable, long-lasting power.

## Description

ACCEL Super Coils feature advanced bobbin technology, highly specialized silicone magnetic steel cores, along with optimized winding, resistance and turns ratios to deliver 10-15 percent more energy than the OEM coils. Specialized high temperature epoxy resists shock and vibration, while increasing thermal conductivity. These are direct plug replacements for OEM coils. They feature bodies and/or secondary towers molded in ACCEL yellow and feature brass secondary contacts (except direct fire coil on plug applications).

Review: Big Savings, Great Product! - I used this to replace my coils on a 2004 ford F150, 165K miles. My truck began to sputter at highway speeds. A little online research pointed to the coils being bad. At the time, I also changed my spark plugs since waiting to the 100k since the last change wouldn't fly (read problems with 2004 f150 plugs). Anyway, I changed both plugs and coils and my truck has run flawlessly, without the sputtering problems. In case you wonder if the plugs made the difference or the coils... All the plugs were evenly worn, and none were more burned up than the rest. I also was able to pull out the plugs (autolites HT1) without any of them breaking like the oems did. Therefore, I believe the problem was in the coil. FYI.. For those who say you can check the resistance in the coil to identify a bad one.. Keep in mind that the coils resistance changes with the temperature as they coil down. So you will not get repeatable readings until the coils are fully cooled. And even then, a cooled off coil may not indicate if its bad or good, like when the coil is hot under load. To better understand that, you need to be an electrician or understand the assembly and inner workings of coil under a load. The coils came in individually packaged boxes, all packed into one bigger Accel box. Accel has been around for quite a long time, and at $205 dollars with desertcart prime, it definetly was worth the price.. It would have cost me $75 to take to a shop to find the bad coil, and another $75 to replace just one. So it was $150 for the exact known coil to replace if it was just one coil, or for $205 replace them all since they had 165K Miles anyway. So I choose to replace all of them. I definately recommend these coils and replacing all of your coils if you have high miles and are replacing any of them anyway.. Good luck!
Review: Best decision, don't buy the cheap brown ones. You'd think I installer a Supercharger! - I have to first post the very negative review I posted for the cheap brown unmarked COPs also sold on desertcart. Because the moment I installed these, my 08 F250 was back in the game and no codes and no misfires or lags! Review or cheap china product: I've changed plugs and COPs on multiple vehicles over the years, namely a 2005 Mustang GT, 2001 Expedition, and my current 2008 f250 5.4ltr, and plugs on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a 1995 Chevy k3500, and a 2005 Buick LaCrosse, I also have a great $350 Bosch code reader. Im a general contractor, I do mixed driving all the time, I often have some kind of payload or a cargo trailer. I purchased my 08 f250 5.4ltr in mid sept 2016, with 120k miles on IG. I knew that it was overdue for new plugs and COPs, and other things. In late October the engine threw codes, spark and cop problems. I purchased oem plugs from my local autozone and I desperately needed to save money at that time, and decided against purchasing COPs I knew would work 100% from the local guy's and purchased online. I was worried at the time this product had only 3 reviews, and the other product that are yellow had several hundred reviews, but they cost significantly more. I figure: it's just a work truck, not a performance build. I waited to do all the installation at once. The moment after I was done and cleared all codes and even disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to wipe the computer, I reconnected and turned the engine over and it took forever to get it going. It wasn't a battery issue, I had the dealer put in a new one. My truck then acted like it was a manual and I didn't know how to drive and kept the clutch in too long, it stalled every time it had to accelerate. I would later learn I had to have the truck warmed up every morning similar to a disel otherwise when I pressed the gas it would roll, chok and and misfire for 5+ seconds before finally starting to accelerate like a 1989 geo metro losing gear. I couldn't merge into traffic safely anymore. When it idled I could hear it misfire and rock between below 500 RPMS and it's normal idel of about 750 RPMs. It routinely died if I didn't feather the gas petal if I was reversing upna hill, say from a convenience store sloped parking space. I could barely make it hit 20 MPh unloaded and not under tow when going up a hill of really any steepness. And the engine breaking built into the truck for when I did tow also was malfunctioning. My transmission would routinely over work itself to make up for the lack of power and constant misfire and seemingly bad timing of the engine, it would reve up to 5k but then stall until I feathered the gas pedal and allowed the engines actual speed to catch up. When the weather was below freezing all of these problems became even worse! I had to deal with this for months due to money and work conflicts: the code reader told me the same error codes as before. It ran WORSE than with the original faulty COPS that I purchased it with. The electrical tests seemed fine. Finally I purchased the more downside higher performance yellow COP kit, and just installed it. On a 30 mile mixed driving test drive, with multiple stops stop lights and parking, up hills and down hills, high RPM and not, here's no issue. You would think I put in a supercharger. And no codes: what a dangerous, irresponsible waste of money these parts are. The white residue on two of these 4 month old COPs is from the constant misfires. **** end***

## Features

- 10 to 15 percent more power than aging stock coils
- Delivers more torque quicker starts instant throttle response better acceleration a smoother idle and improved gas mileage
- Engineered specifically for 2004 to 2008 4.6L and 5.4L Ford 3 valve modular engines
- Reduces misfire and eliminates hesitation
- Completely redesigned highly conductive direct plug replacement

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B001AHAHRS |
| Best Sellers Rank | #125,093 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #361 in Automotive Replacement Ignition Coils |
| Brand Name | ACCEL |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | Car |
| Connector Gender | Female |
| Customer Reviews | 4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars (706) |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00743047105863 |
| Included Components | Accel Coil, Ford Mod Eng 3-Valve |
| Installation Type | Bolt-On |
| Item Dimensions | 7.6 x 2.6 x 2.7 inches |
| Item Type Name | Accel Coil, Ford Mod Eng 3-Valve |
| Item Weight | 8 ounces |
| Manufacturer | ACCEL |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | 90 Days |
| Part Interchange Info | 140033 |
| UPC | 743047105863 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** ACCEL
- **Connector Gender:** Female
- **Item Weight:** 8 ounces
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 7.6 x 2.6 x 2.7 inches
- **Vehicle Service Type:** Car

## Images

![140033 Ignition SuperCoil , Yellow - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61sF8ANdWVL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Big Savings, Great Product!
*by F***O on October 21, 2013*

I used this to replace my coils on a 2004 ford F150, 165K miles. My truck began to sputter at highway speeds. A little online research pointed to the coils being bad. At the time, I also changed my spark plugs since waiting to the 100k since the last change wouldn't fly (read problems with 2004 f150 plugs). Anyway, I changed both plugs and coils and my truck has run flawlessly, without the sputtering problems. In case you wonder if the plugs made the difference or the coils... All the plugs were evenly worn, and none were more burned up than the rest. I also was able to pull out the plugs (autolites HT1) without any of them breaking like the oems did. Therefore, I believe the problem was in the coil. FYI.. For those who say you can check the resistance in the coil to identify a bad one.. Keep in mind that the coils resistance changes with the temperature as they coil down. So you will not get repeatable readings until the coils are fully cooled. And even then, a cooled off coil may not indicate if its bad or good, like when the coil is hot under load. To better understand that, you need to be an electrician or understand the assembly and inner workings of coil under a load. The coils came in individually packaged boxes, all packed into one bigger Accel box. Accel has been around for quite a long time, and at $205 dollars with Amazon prime, it definetly was worth the price.. It would have cost me $75 to take to a shop to find the bad coil, and another $75 to replace just one. So it was $150 for the exact known coil to replace if it was just one coil, or for $205 replace them all since they had 165K Miles anyway. So I choose to replace all of them. I definately recommend these coils and replacing all of your coils if you have high miles and are replacing any of them anyway.. Good luck!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Best decision, don't buy the cheap brown ones. You'd think I installer a Supercharger!
*by K***D on March 1, 2017*

I have to first post the very negative review I posted for the cheap brown unmarked COPs also sold on Amazon. Because the moment I installed these, my 08 F250 was back in the game and no codes and no misfires or lags! Review or cheap china product: I've changed plugs and COPs on multiple vehicles over the years, namely a 2005 Mustang GT, 2001 Expedition, and my current 2008 f250 5.4ltr, and plugs on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a 1995 Chevy k3500, and a 2005 Buick LaCrosse, I also have a great $350 Bosch code reader. Im a general contractor, I do mixed driving all the time, I often have some kind of payload or a cargo trailer. I purchased my 08 f250 5.4ltr in mid sept 2016, with 120k miles on IG. I knew that it was overdue for new plugs and COPs, and other things. In late October the engine threw codes, spark and cop problems. I purchased oem plugs from my local autozone and I desperately needed to save money at that time, and decided against purchasing COPs I knew would work 100% from the local guy's and purchased online. I was worried at the time this product had only 3 reviews, and the other product that are yellow had several hundred reviews, but they cost significantly more. I figure: it's just a work truck, not a performance build. I waited to do all the installation at once. The moment after I was done and cleared all codes and even disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to wipe the computer, I reconnected and turned the engine over and it took forever to get it going. It wasn't a battery issue, I had the dealer put in a new one. My truck then acted like it was a manual and I didn't know how to drive and kept the clutch in too long, it stalled every time it had to accelerate. I would later learn I had to have the truck warmed up every morning similar to a disel otherwise when I pressed the gas it would roll, chok and and misfire for 5+ seconds before finally starting to accelerate like a 1989 geo metro losing gear. I couldn't merge into traffic safely anymore. When it idled I could hear it misfire and rock between below 500 RPMS and it's normal idel of about 750 RPMs. It routinely died if I didn't feather the gas petal if I was reversing upna hill, say from a convenience store sloped parking space. I could barely make it hit 20 MPh unloaded and not under tow when going up a hill of really any steepness. And the engine breaking built into the truck for when I did tow also was malfunctioning. My transmission would routinely over work itself to make up for the lack of power and constant misfire and seemingly bad timing of the engine, it would reve up to 5k but then stall until I feathered the gas pedal and allowed the engines actual speed to catch up. When the weather was below freezing all of these problems became even worse! I had to deal with this for months due to money and work conflicts: the code reader told me the same error codes as before. It ran WORSE than with the original faulty COPS that I purchased it with. The electrical tests seemed fine. Finally I purchased the more downside higher performance yellow COP kit, and just installed it. On a 30 mile mixed driving test drive, with multiple stops stop lights and parking, up hills and down hills, high RPM and not, here's no issue. You would think I put in a supercharger. And no codes: what a dangerous, irresponsible waste of money these parts are. The white residue on two of these 4 month old COPs is from the constant misfires. **** end***

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ The problem with ford spark plugs breaking off. trials and errors
*by D***3 on April 13, 2015*

Very easy to put on but the spark plug was another story. I have a 2008 Lincoln Navigator and the motor craft spark plugs are known to break off. I followed the instruction to removal to the book and still manage to brake 4 spark plugs, thus requiring the ford spark plug removal kit for 99. It was very weird because all 4 broke off on the left but the other 5 on the right came out with no problem and with sparking carbonator cleaning in first and letting it sit for 6 hours soaking. They still broke off. Another issue I ran into was that a rock.. I and I mean the perfect rock was inside the spark plug well and was wedged into the spark plug. it had been there for a long time and could of been causing the problems with the spark plug becase the rock was burnt. It had to be removed because the ratchet would not go on the bolt to get the spark plug out. Well it took about and hour and we came up with a solution. We grind down an allen wrench down so that it can go below the spark plug bolt and set under the rock. I then use vice grips needle nose to grab the allen wrench and then a metal rode to pull up on the vice grips. Well the metal rod broke. I then use a tire iron and with one big pull up it popped out. The rock was so wedge into the spark plug that it would not move and this was the only way to get it out. I sucked it up with a vacuum that I made with a big hard straw on it and presto we could then get to the bolt. Food for thought if you run into this same problem. I do not know how a rock got into there bout after an hour I was glad to have it removed. Well a little wiser and filling very accomplished, I removed the four broken spark plugs with the tool. It is very easy to use but you need to make sure you push the broken spark plug all the way down using the tool so other tool can grad onto it. It may require you to stop and wind the screw back up and start again. The truck runs like new again and I have seen a big notice on the response and no more misfires. I do not know about the gas for now so I will have to watch and see if it does save gas but for power its very noticeable on the navigator.

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*Product available on Desertcart Hong Kong*
*Store origin: HK*
*Last updated: 2026-05-04*