Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer with 250mm/s Printing Speed CR Touch Strain Sensor for Auto Leveling Sprite Direct Extruder Dual Z-axis and Y-axis, 3D Printer for Beginner Print 8.6 * 8.6 * 9.8in

The media could not be loaded. Far surpassed any expectations I had of a 3D printer, it is quick, efficient and takes 3D printing to another level, whilst looking good and taking up far less space, for the same build volume than any 3D bedslinger. The software is easy to use, and you can be up and running in an hour, even if you have never owned a 3D printer before.I saw various YouTube articled complaining about beds that were not level etc, and my initial worries were not confirmed, the printer has performed flawlessly I am happy to say.I have printed with supports and the piece being 290mm long, just fit on the build plate across corners, the part was printed with supports at a 30⁰ angle, the supports were easy to remove and the part looks amazing.Bed adhesion is very good, I always use the glue provided and have had no issues with adhesion,.The auto bed leveling works well and the standard settings for Hyper PLA work perfectly, the bed heater is quick, the magnetic bed plate with location tabs is a great help to locate the plate in the bed.The unit has a built in camara that is very useful as I print from the another location in my home whilst sat in comfort elsewhere, The app and PC software allow wireless printing straight from the Web, you will find a multitude of 3D printable parts, models etc already waiting to be explored, buy one have fun, this machine is fun to use, but it can churn out seriously good accurate prints from engineering drawings very quickly, I am impressed, very impressed.

Brought this just as the Covid-19 lockdown started in 2020.First suggestion is to throw away the instructions from Creality as they are worse than none at all. Just utter rubbish, don't waste your time reading them, Head over to YouTube and fine one of the hundreds of videos that show you how to assemble one. The videos are simple and show you how to ensure the supports are aligned.It'll take a few hours to assemble if you are careful and take it slowly. getting it square at the beginning is key.One of the many keys to getting a good print is to get the bed level. Learn how to do it NOW as it will remove frustration and make sure you are getting a good first layer. This is a key element along with the right temperature for nozzle and for the heated bed. It's all related and I'm still learning a few months on.Once assembled and levelled, put some PLA (don't try ABS or PETG yet) and do some small prints to get a feel for what it can do. Don't try and build a full scale WWII tank, small is good.3d printing is not that fast, so learn slowly.I got the BlTouch as well and never got it to work. I am an expert in the Marlin firmware now, but it's a nightmare to get it working and as with so many far eastern manufacturers, the instructions are worse than rubbish. YouTube is your friend.The first upgrades to print are a little roller and support arm to make sure the filament has a nice smooth path. I have also added a Raspberry Pi 3 and Octoprint to remove the constant changing of the SD Card.I have also upgraded the motherboard to the quieter V1.1.14 as I <ahem> blew the original one up installing the BLTouch. That was my fault.I have some Capricorn bowden tube for when the constant PETG printing melts the standard one. That has a limit of 250C and 245C is pretty hard on it. But so far, it's been fine.The magnetic mat works well for me. Other people have different views, but I like it. So long as the bed is levelled it seems OK. However it's clear the middle of the mat is slightly concave.The printer has been in pretty much constant use since I got it. It now prints face mask frames for the NHS in PETG. So far, so long as you bed level and get the right temperatures, it's a great first 3d printer.Would I buy it again knowing what I know now? No, I'd buy a bigger and faster version, but this is a great first 3d printer and I don't regret buying it at all.Rob

I felt like knocking a star off for what I class as quite bad installation instructions. However, I just can't because ultimately the print quality is fantastic - far, far better than I expected. This is one of the best things I've ever bought!When you're building this machine I suggest you use a variety of information sources. The CD includes an animation of the build process, which shows you roughly what goes where. The instructions provide some clue again, but in my opinion there is no better than watching a YouTube video of someone building this Ender 3 machine from scratch (they're out there - find a good one). Take your time. Don't force anything. Make sure you don't pinch the Z-stop cable when putting the frame up (I did). And don't put the clips for the glass bed within 4cm of the edge of the glass or the extruder will drive in to them!It took me about 6 or 7 hours to build it, and then the only problem was printing on the glass bed. The first layer just wouldn't stick at all. I googled it (I am a complete beginner) and saw a recommendation of using masking tape. I masking taped the bed, then re-levelled the bed (see YouTube videos for how) and then I was rewarded with a fantastic first print, which was the test dog - the .gcode is included already on the MicroSD card, so your printer is all ready to print this without installing any software on your PC.Once you've got it all set up, you can go to places like Thingiverse.com and download STL files. Load them in to software like CURA, alter some settings if desired, and generate the .gcode which you then load on to the 3d printer via the MicroSD. I now use watered down PVA glue on the bed, and a hotter bed temperature (80), along with no fan for the first layer and a slightly bigger first layer. You can set all this in CURA or whatever other software you use. This has improved first layer adhesion, but I didn't have to learn all this stuff on day one, and the machine was good enough "out of the box" to print great - I just sometimes had to restart prints because the first layer went wrong, and I hardly have to do that at all now!I've printed the 'standard' Ender 3 improvements like a fan guard, cable clips and filament guide, as well as a computer SSD holder, ornaments, and multiple different brackets (one of which I managed to design myself, for free, in Tinkercad). The prints are detailed, exact and strong. Such a good thing to have!