Microswiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Flashforge Finder and Flashforge Guider 2 (.4mm)

Not too difficult to instal and excellent result. It soled my warping issue on the FlashForge .

This little kit is a surprisingly great update for the Flashforge Finder. The product is high quality and installation was very straightforward with Micro Swiss's YouTube video. Following installation, I could adjust the retraction amount to 0.5 mm and lower the extruder temperature to 210 which resulted in eliminating previous print problems and increasing print quality appreciably.

Ok this is advertised on Micro Swiss’ website as comparable with model 2 and 2S. I bought it and it does not fit. According to MicroSwiss technical support there is a heat sink difference in newer Guider 2S's that makes this not work with them. Because Amazon decided that my original review gave too much factual information to new buyers about the hot end I have lowered my overall experience from 3 stars because even thought it did not fit it was still a very high quality part even thought I cant use it, to 1 star because Amazon is becoming the Facebook of not letting people post facts. I still recommend MicoSwiss products because they are great.

I've seen many people dislike the Micro Swiss hotend stating that it clogs on their Flashforge Finder, etc. This isn’t just a swap and play item, you do have to tune the settings as temp and retraction rates will need to be adjusted....also mentioned in their installation video. So far, I’ve printed a few temp towers using hatchbox pla and appropriately set up temp changes at given marked heights. Before with the PTFE lined hotend and hatchbox pla, I was printing 220°C with no problems or stringing and yes, that’s a bit on high range where 210°C is usually the temp stated by most manufacturers. I made several profiles to reflect each setting change, named appropriately and completed a full temp tower print for each setting change ~1.5hr per print. After only changing the retraction rates and running proper manual setup temp tower with 45degree angles, bridges, cones, etc (to automatically change temp and appropriate heights) I’ve went from stock 1.3 retraction down to .7/.5 retraction. The best results I saw from the prints are printed with .7 retraction @ 200°C. Of course, a second opinion and set of eyes is cruital, so I asked my 12yo to look at each one set and determine which was the best, without him knowing what it was or why. He chose the 200°C on both .7 and .5 retraction and after scrutinizing the prints further, he decided on the .7 retraction @ 200°C. One last note......He did say that the stock setting of 1.3 retraction on all temps looked like crap compared to the .7/.5. Again, this was installed on a Flashforge Finder plus with hactchbox PLA and instructions were followed as per mfg specs with no issues other than settings. Now to verify Solutech PLA settings, Hatchbox TPU and ABS and create profiles for each. If you don’t make retraction setting changes, yes it will clog and prints won’t look as they did with the stock ptfe lined hotend....as my son put it "looks like crap!" EDIT: few changes

probably regretting getting this to my trusty finder... filaments now have like 60% jams. Which never happened before. Installation is straight forward too. Now I have MS all metal hotend on my other printers and they're all great! but for this typical printer. I'd stay away. Now I rarely use my finder =/ It's just not printing quite right anymore.

I read a bunch of the reviews for this product. Some people seemed to have a lot of difficulty with this. and a few people mentioned some extra steps to be taking. DO NOT ADD HEAT SINK COMPOUND. I thought this would help and instead I spent several hours trying to figure out why the nozzle would not quite reach the operating temperature I wanted. Heat sink compound will make your cooling fan too efficient to heat up correctly. The installation is super easy. The dimensions of this product are slightly different from the OE brass nozzle. After you install this in your printer, just run a Z axis calibration to account for a different nozzle length and re-level your bed. Past that little piece of information you just need to familiarize yourself with new settings in an all metal hot end. I highly recommend this.

As the title states, if you have jamming it's because there isn't good enough thermal transfer between the threaded heatbreak tube and the stock heatsink. If you liberally slather things up with thermal paste during assembly this will solve this problem. I initially installed it without and had severe issues. After redoing with thermal paste it's been nothing but perfect since. You also *MUST* change your retraction settings. 0.5mm @ ~25mm/s is a good starting point. Edit: June 2021, still working perfectly.

"All Metal" is interpreted as one-piece. Aside from the nozzle it's actually two pieces. When the hotend clogged I tried to unthread the unit from the heatsink causing the whole unit to unthread in half. Now I have a heating element with a half of the hotend and heatsink without the other half. Total garbage. The damage and replacement parts to repair will cost more than this thing.

Much improvement over OEM tube