ideaspark® ESP32 Development Board 16MB Integrated 1.9 inch ST7789 170x320 TFT LCD Display,WiFi+BL Wireless Module,CH340 Driver USB Type-C for Arduino Micropython

I bought a couple of these and had only the usual difficulty plugging the module into a standard solderless breadboard. Getting all 30 pins inserted into a breadboard, particularly a new one, takes patience, but the pin spacing is correct so this is no worse than any other ESP32.The module is wide enough that to make connections to the GPIO pins it's easiest to combine two breadboards, side by side (see photo). I've gotten the display working with the Adafruit TFT libraries and look forward to using the display for viewing real time trace messages of what's going on inside the ESP32. This should be a big help in debugging and, with 16MB of flash, there will be room for lots and lots of code.Or, maybe, have a couple of these around the house to show real-time status of the home security system I'm going to build. Someday soon ....

My brother purchased one of these boards, but had problems with it, because most of the components were not soldered. Out of curiosity, I purchased one as well. Mine booted as expected. I followed the instructions in the product images, and changed the image to my own image. I loaded the original factory program. All of the basic functions worked.However, my first real test was to attach a BME280 sensor and display the readings on the screen. I have used this sensor before, so I know it works. Wired the sensor to the default I2C pins (SDA: GPIO21, SCL: GPIO22) and could not get the sensor to work. When I removed the code for the display, which should be using SPI, the sensor worked without issue. I changed the I2C pins (SDA: GPIO12, SCL: GPIO14) and now the display and sensor work without issue. Since SPI and I2C are completely different, it didn't make sense that changing I2C pins allowed me to use both protocols. Looking at the pinout shows the default I2C pins are adjacent to the SPI pins used for the display. I checked continuity between the pins and found that GPIO22 and GPIO23 are connected. I looked at the solder joint, and they are indeed connected. Using a very small solder tip, I was able to fix the solder joint without removing the screen. I spent two evenings troubleshooting this board, but it works now...I think. Who knows what other solder issues I will find.---UPDATE---If the board has a boost module and/or battery charge circuit, they do not work. The screen operates at a much different brightness when on battery (3.7V) versus USB (5V). Battery connected to module does not charge when also connected to USB. So far (Jan 2025), I have yet to hear from the seller/manufacturer regarding specific board questions. Also, I have yet to find circuit diagrams. For these reasons, I am dropping my review to a single star.

The ESP32 Generic image from Micropython works but doesn't support the display. For the display, you need to build Micropython with russhughes/st7789_mpy on GitHub. There are prebuilt images there, but they are a little out of date. You then need to make a new tft_config.py file with the right pins and dimensions. You also need to modify the Micropython config if you want to take advantage of the full 16MB of flash.The board works, but it has some annoyances.- There's a blue LED on the DC pin for the display. You can turn it off, but it will turn on again every time you update the display- The pin rows are spaced 1.1 inches apart. Most ESP32 breakout boards are either 0.9 inches or 1.0 inches. I tried to contact the manufacturer to see if they could recommend a breakout board, but they didn't respond. 1.1 is also the width of a standard breadboard section, so you either have to span it across two breadboard sections or run some jumpers under the board.- The USB-C interface doesn't work with actual USB-C, so you have to switch from USB-C to USB-A and then back to USB-C to connectIt was fun to play with, but I'll probably look for something else in the future.

Make sure you use USB A-C for the cable. Awesome integrated tool.

Wide capability in a easy to use package. Fast and reliable. Good display. Easy to program using the Arduino IDE. Compact enough to fit into all sorts of fun projects.Easy to make a stand-alone monitor for anything connected to the WiFi system. Or an NTS controlled clock. Or...

You know how when you buy a quality item, and you go on to uncover nice features you didn't think of? Well, this ain't that. It might be in a negative way. First it looks like it fits those dev boards. Did you count the pins to be sure? I thought matching the count and pins would work? It will not. Prepare for this board to not actually fit anything you have - except the most obtuse proto board.THE WORST part is that I cannot get WiFi to work, unless there's a serial cable (monitor) connected and listening. The other ESP32s don't do that. I have no idea what the connection is, but this board's wifi requires an active monitor (???) and is utter garbage.Save yourself the headache, buy a cheaper ESP32 and a separate display - you will not be sorry.Avoid this awful thing.

The media could not be loaded. I was able to shrink a project of mine down considerable. I was using a full size ESP32 board and a separate 320x240 TFT display. But by using this module and the GUIslice library with GUIslice Builder along with TFT_eSPI graphic library in the Arduino IDE. I was able to make the enclosure much smaller.

So I bought this after posting a question whether this module fits in a breadboard AND leaves a row open on each side. Somebody answered yes, so I bought one. I wish people would fully read a question before answering as that answer was incorrect. In the attached image, you can see that it does not leave any rows open, when you insert it in a breadboard. You need to make all your connections to the pins beforehand under the module. If you need to change or add things, you have to keep popping off the module from the board. I will try writing some code for this and see if the display is worth it. I may also make a riser carrier board for it, to make it fit on a breadboard in such a way as to open up access to the pins directly.