NOVA3D High Clear 3D Printer Resin - Crystal Clear Tough, Yellowing Resistant, Low Odor 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD/DLP 3D Printers

This resin prints fantastically clear, once it dries it gets a haze and I'm sure there is a way to post process it back to clear, maybe just a clear lacquer applied. Fresh out of the vat with resin still dripping they are like glass. I followed the manufacture times shown in the photo, the second set with 3 Bottom Layers, 20s Bottom Exposure time, .05 Layer thickness, 6 Normal Exposure time. My only other recommendations would be to make sure you have enough in your Vat because its really really hard to see how much is in there, it is incredibly clear.

If you have a Anycubic Photon Mono M5 Printer these are the setting that worked for me @ .05 mm layersBases layers 11 @43 secLight off .5Exposure Time 10 secLift distance 8mmLift speed 3mm/sRetract Speed 4mm/sTried 4 sec and up until I got to 10 then it did a beautiful print.

Bad for large prints. Detail level is also bad. Getting down the exposure setting was a rabbit hole. Plenty of people have reported that this is a really bad resin. Just buy Siriyatech. I can’t return my purchase so I guess I’ll just have to do what I can’t with it. Thankfully this will only be used for clear base parts that don’t require a lot of detail.

I have a regular old Nova3D Elfin2, without the high powered Monochrome LCD. I didn't read anything about this Ultra-clear Rapid resin when I ordered it.There were strange rejects I'd never seen before. Thinking the trouble was part geometry, support structure, the usual stuff, I printed basic shapes. A cube and a cylinder, with tapered holes through them, to better diagnose failures.Bottom layer exposure of 30 seconds was enough for the Elfin2's aluminum build plate. (If parts don't stick, increase that time to whatever is necessary.)The rest of the layers (height 0.100 mm) needed a long exposure. The normal 5 seconds just left a gummy mess hanging from the plate.And 8 sec per layer was not enough. The most obvious flaw was parts didn't always adhere to the base layers. (See photos of wet parts, fresh off the printer).But 15 seconds worked. More time should be even better. Everything improved. Curing this stuff requires a lot of UV exposure. 15 seconds per layer is normally needed when light has a hard time penetrating, as with a black resin.I tried hard to make it go yellow but prints are water clear, as clear as when they went in, even after an hour in my curing chamber. One minute in that thing is enough to darken regular resin... The extra print time is worth the wait.They say it's "viscous". It's slimy and sticky and will bridge short spans. A dense forest of stubby supports under a part will probably become a solid block. Raise the model several mm off the plate so resin can drain away.After playing with it for one day I don't know much, but at least I know I can print with it. I expect there to be a few trade-offs for that crystal clarity.

I printed a trophy for our church's March Madness challenge and wanted a "glass" insert. Did some research and found this resin. It worked perfectly! There is definitely a learning curve to getting this stuff to print though. Be sure to check the recommendations on print speeds and curing times. I did a long wash on the print to remove excess resin and did a similarly long curing cycle. The flat print wanted to curve upward a bit during curing, but I was still able to get it into the trophy. Hit the finished print with a little high gloss acrylic for that true glass look.

This resin is easy to use as long as you follow the recommended settings. The resin mixes well with mica powders to create custom colors.

First off, when this resin works it's really clear. By far the clearest and least yellow I've ever used. I printed a windshield for a little mech and was able to polish and varnish it to be actually glass like. The problem is the supports. It tends to fuse everything together. The bottoms of prints facing the build plates are usually a little worse with most resins but this resin is especially bad. I printed a d20. First try was to just slap one of the faces on the build plate and give it a try. The elephants foot from the burn in layer was insane to the point that there wasn't even a number there anymore and made the part unusable. So I raised it up 5mm and put it on supports. When it finished the entire support tree, raft and part was a single piece and all the numbers on the bottom half were basically non existent. The top half looked pretty good though. Keep in mind that I ran probably 10 validation matrices trying to dial this stuff in. If you have a part that requires no supports then this stuff is actually great but with it being such a pain to work with and at a fairly high cost I have a hard time recommending it unless you absolutely have to have it for a specific reason. It certainly has its uses. I would probably buy 2 bottles though.... The first one is probably going in the bin with all the other failed prints.

It's a pain to hunt down decent settings for other brands of printers, and even still, doesn't print properly. The fronts of the models turn out great, but the back side where the supports are, turn out 'melted' or merges into the supports. Even though it says it's compatible with non-nova printers, it's really not great with them.