BBX-T600 Car Amplifier 600W Max 2 Channel Class A/B

...although it should be no surprise that my last infatuation (in the mobile arena) was an Alpine Type-S from back in 2005... Here, in 2013, Alpine still keeps me going. This amp is awesome. The included Hi-Level inputs do an amazing job. When getting your system installed, your installer is going to push you to use their Hi-Low Level Converter. The reasoning behind this is nonsense. Be sure to get your amp installed, etc., but, if they insist on using it, just keep the included cables and do it yourself. It took me all of fifteen minutes to wire the hi-level input on the amp, and what a difference ten-minutes makes... Something tells me I'm going to miss the hi-level input once I get my new head unit, but I'm in no rush at this point (even though the display no longer works and the CD no longer ejects lol). I use my phone and the stock auxiliary input... It's not as loud, but it's loud enough. The human ear adjusts your perceived amplitude anyway, so it doesn't really matter what system you have (in the lower, consumer-grade category). The adjustments on this amp are straight forward and useful. The 45Hz Boost is good (used sparingly), and the Low-Pass-Filter seems quite accurate. There is a lot of power in this amp, but I'm only using a 250W Bazooka BT1024DVC BT Series 10-Inch 4 Ohm Dual Passive Tube , so I don't really need to push the amp. In its operating range, this amp seems amazing! If I were to upgrade my sub, I would probably just buy another one of these and let it go... In the past, I skimped on amplifiers...going for the bigger number over the higher quality... Now, I know a LOT better, and will not waste my time on inferior amps. I would've bought a Kicker Amp for a great deal, but ultimately decided to spend a little more for a brand KNOWN for consistent quality. My amp came with a card denoting 565W RMS (lower than others I've seen here :-(), but I'm happy knowing that I'm atleast getting 400W... Either way, go ahead and add it to your cart...it should definitely be considered in your final decision. UPDATE (12/21/2013) After quite a few months of ownership, something I've noticed is that the amplifier will overheat if not provided enough ventilation (duh?). In my trunk, mounted to the back of the seat (surely not the best configuration, considering heat dissipation and the angle of the seat), the amp will cut off after a short while UNLESS I have my back seat stowed (opened to the trunk)... Although it's not a deal breaker, it's definitely annoying. In the end, I'll likely end up mounting my amplifier on the trunk floor... Regardless, again, it's not a deal breaker... Great amp, that seems to be quite durable. It has already blown my Bazooka tube...(not surprisingly)...and is definitely something that my new Boston subs absolutely love! Thanks again, Alpine!

I purchased this amp to power a subwoofer in my boat. Class D was important for efficiency reasons and playing on the sand bar for hours at a time without draining my batteries to quickly. This amp is fantastic. It's paired to a JL Audio M10IB5 10" woofer that's stuffed into the cutout in the footwell of my boat. The boats only a 20' Supra wakeboard boat, so not much area to fill with sound, and this thing just pounds and pounds. The sound is incredibly clean, the amp stays nice and cool, it has a very small footprint, easily adjustable, and just all around what I'd expect from my history of alpine products. Besides all that, you can't beat the price this little amp boasts for the power it provides. One thing to note, this does have a remote bass adjustment that can be used with the amp to adjust the gain on the fly. The Alpine specific gain control is NOT REQUIRED. I used the control that came with a piece of junk BOSS amplifier with this amp, and it worked just fine. So if you cand find a adjustment knob that has the phone cord looking plug in on the amp side, it should work the same as the alpine add on, at a much lower price. I've since upgraded to an equilizer that gives me control of the sub channel through RCA's, so no need for the knob any longer, but when I used it, it worked great. Another thing with this amp, keep in mind it is rated at 300W RMS at 14.4 volts. It's rare that you'll actually be pushing 14.4V, so don't expect 300W RMS. Account for a bit of loss in power due to lower voltage. For this reason, I chose this amp paired with the JL sub. JL sub is rated at 250W RMS, so with the voltage drop in my system (especially after being parked at the sandbar for hours in my boat), I expect some loss in power from the lower voltage which allows this amp to mate up to the sub I'm running superbly. I don't even have to crank this sub to get good boom out of it either. This pair has great bass even at high volumes when sometimes subwoofers will fade out and be taken over by the mids/highs because maxing the amp out. Not a problem with this little guy. It has good sound at low or high volumes and never fades out. LOVE THIS AMP!!!

The Alpine MRV-M500 is a tried and true model, first introduced back in 2013. As of December 2019, this amp is still being sold on Amazon despite it's discontinued status. Nevertheless, the amp is one of the top sellers in the mono amplifier category, so I felt compelled to buy one to test on my SMD Amp Dyno. How did it do? Let's find out: 4 ohms (Rated 300W) - Tests below at 40Hz 332W at 13.93 volts certified to 1% THD 332W at 13.93 volts at clipping 343W at 14 volts dynamic power 2 ohms (500W rated) 563W at 13.71 volts certified 582W at 13.59 volts at clipping 676W at 14.03 volts dynamic power As you can see the amp exceeded it's rated power at each ohm load and test. Love to see this! Here are the positives: - Amp exceeds it's rated specifications - Has RCA outputs for connecting another amp - Has high level inputs for use with systems without aftermarket head units - 24dB/oct low-pass crossover - 4ga Power/Ground inputs - 8ga speaker outputs - Plastic end caps snap on without screws or mounting hardware - High end ELNA capacitors 105 degrees C Could be better? - Doesn't include Bass Remote / Cable - available as option - Discontinued - probably won't be available much longer - No subsonic filter - be careful using this amp with subwoofers in ported enclosures - Proprietary IC output drive circuitry making this amp nearly impossible for 3rd party repair techs to fix when it breaks Overall, fantastic amp! I hope my review helps someone. -Dereck from Williston Audio Labs

Used the MRV-M500 mono amp to power my Rockford P1S4-10 Punch P1 sub (rated at 250W RMS @ 4-Ohm). It more than suffices for the job & create little to no heat. It's well built and I am more than satisfied w/ the performance. It creates very clean power going to my subwoofer & was easy to mount in my trunk due to its light weight & small size. The only gripe I have with this amp is that the LPF doesn't have an On/Off switch. This came as a surprise to me since I also have the Alpine MRV-F300 4-channel powering the front & rear speakers in my 15' Camry & it does have an Off/On switch for the HPF. It bothers me because I chose to tune my crossover points from the Pioneer AVH-4700BS I replaced the OEM head unit with & am not sure it the LPF on this amp clashes with it. So I set the M500's to the highest frequency & caped it at 100Hz at the head unit. ** Note ** I tuned this amp w/ the SMD DD-1 playing 40Hz @ -10dB test tones in order to find the distortion levels. I barely had to turn up the gains & yet it was pushing a clean 230W RMS to the sub using Ohm's law & my multimeter to determine the voltage. Sounds surreal once it's tuned properly.

Using this amp with a single Focal RSB-250 Auditor 10" dvc 4ohm sub, running through a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX head unit. Sound quality is quite good with the combination sub/amp/stereo, solid bass and almost no noticeable THD at high volumes once it was properly dialed in. The crossover in looks to be good, but its missing two key items, a 0/180º phase switch, and it would be nice to have a switch to completely disable the low pass filtering. Why? Because most decent head units now have full active crossover networks built-in, and being able to disable the amp's network completely would be a good feature to have for those who are already running one through their stereo, or better, a dsp unit or likewise. Neither of these are really deal-breakers though, and for what you get at under 200 bucks, its a steal! Wiring connections are solid and feel firm, the amp's size is small enough to fit under most seats and other small spaces, and after an hour of playing/tuning at high volumes, the amp wasn't even warm! Wish I could say that about the sub, as it was definitely warm at the center dustcap (not dangerously hot, just noticeably warm)! My last Alpine amp experience wasn't a great one, with a 6 channel V-12 or something like that, the amp didn't make it 2 years with a very modest setup, so I'm cautiously hoping for a positive experience with this one. Of course, I'll update if I do end up with issues!

Amazing amplifier that does more than its money's worth. I initially had a boss riot M1100 which worked great for about 5 months and then shorted. I hear that's a comon problem with that amp and many others that are on the cheaper side. I decided to do things right the second time around and spent a bit more for the alpine. Money well spent. Until you have used a lower quality amp and upgraded to one like this I don't know if you can truly appreciate how much better alpine is. There is more power, better sound, and it's solid and compact. The less powerful boss amp I had was larger and was not a solidly built. Rattles came free :/. I already had a remote level control installed and it works great. If you don't have one I would suggest buying alpine's as well. I highly recommend buying this amp and if you can avoid messing around with the cheap and unreliable stuff you'll save money buying this first instead of wishing you did and upgrading later like me.

I would honestly recommend this to anyone who need an amp for a semi-high powered subwoofer. I paired this up with my 15 inch SWS and it hits like a ton of bricks with extremely low distortion at levels I can hear. I run it for hours without any overheating and it is extremely efficient with its power/heat levels. Only about 10 percent of the power is converted to heat. Despite being a class D amplifier I cannot notice any distortion before painful SPL with my 5v preamps going into it. It is small and yet very well built and after opening it up it has a good tough circuity system on the inside. Using a multimeter I tested its RMS power vs its 500 watt RMS rated power. It came in at 12 volts with my car off at 522 watts RMS and 556 watts RMS with the car running at 13.6 Volts. Runs cool and is still touchable after an and a half. Honestly the only problem I have with this whole amplifier is that it dims my headlights when I run it hard. Car problem not amp problem XD. If you use this amp I would recommend a big 3 upgrade and an additional battery in the trunk. Or if you don't want another battery and you're not worried about your alternator, a capacitor. Great amp at a great price and is extremely well built. 10 out of 10 I would buy again.

I've seen a few questions about power and people saying get more. Well like anybody I'm the same way I want HUGE Bass! This amp has PLENTY of power, if it is hooked up right. Most people get the cheapest amp kit or the best deal and throw it in an crank the system..... Then you complain about not enough power or may even having a burning smell. If you use actual copper wire like Kicker D Series 4 Gauge Amp Kit (Link on Bottom) You actually GET the FULL power from the amp. I only have it halfway and you can FEEL that power not just hear it. When I had it 3/4 up I thought my back window on my SUV was gonna pop out haha not really, but it definitely shakes your car. I didn't use the RCAs in the Kicker Amp Kit, not that they suck I really don't know. I prefer Monster Extra Low Noise RCAs and have no hissing noise at all cranked pretty damn loud. (Check my review on Monster RCAs) I always get high quality the first time, reason being you don't want to replace and redo your system if your like me and do everything as professional as possible. If your not worried about huge bass then this is still a good amp at very low level or try smaller amp. *Link For Kicker Amp Kit* http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RNNYA2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1401279015&sr=8-1 *Link For Monster RCAs* http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BMQR36?pc_redir=1400917514&robot_redir=1