MOOG K90477 Alignment Camber Kit for Toyota RAV4

Having done my wheel bearing for a 2nd Gen prius, the knuckle had to come off due to the insane seizing of 18 years of salt/rust. Bearing hit 200,000 miles and finally started groaning. Ugly sound if you ever experience such a scene. Regardless, got the bearing removed with 20 ton press + acetylene torch on the knuckle. After everything was slapped back together on the strut of the car, the alignment was way off for the camber. We are talking about -2 degrees off which is a recipe for disaster on any tire. 10,000 miles on that angle will chew the sides out ruining a otherwise good tire. Quick check online and this was the recommended bolt for the 2nd Gen Prius. Bought it, slapped it on, used a camber gauge while all 4 tires were in the air and equally flat on 4 jack stands and set my gauge to the alignment shop numbers they gave me. Quarter turns on the bolt and washer will affect camber changes as drastic as 2 degrees depending on orientation. Play around with it a bit and find the sweet spot that gives the desired -0.5 camber required. Tires have never sounded happier. Wish I got these sooner but live and your learn. Two bolts provided and each side only needs 1.

In opposition to some reviews that stated these don't fit Toyota Camry or Lexus ES300, these will fit the vehicles in this class if some time is spent working them in. On the passenger side, I needed to loosen the lower strut bolt before it would seat into the steering knuckle. On the driver side, no massaging of the lower strut bolt was required. After installation, the technician was able to get the car back to factory specs on every parameter except caster, which I'm told is unadjustable. The car again drives fantastic at 136,000 miles.

After an alignment my front wheels were out of range for camber. The MOOG K90477 Alignment Camber Kit was easy to install. Using the BESITA Adjustable Magnetic Gauge Tool Camber Alignment I was able to add the positive camber. After another alignment, the shop said my camber adjustments were "spot on" and they left the bolts as they were.

Needed to add negative camber to my 1997 Toyota Avalon, similar suspension to Camry. These worked well. Instructions were good, and come with a torque specification as well. Only lacking thing was in the instructions: I was wondering which way to orient the included offset washer, and there was no mention of this, though it does matter. Had to look up instructions for similar types of kits to figure that out. But aside from that, the kit worked. If I remember correctly, you want the tang facing inside when you want more negative camber. The washer is the rough pre-range-adjustment. Then turn the cam bolt for precise final adjustment.Don't expect these to be as tight as an OEM-equipped camber bolt. But it works well enough in that once you have achieved your desired change in camber (as most easily determined via digital magnetic angle gauge) just tighten the bolts to spec and be done with it.I found it easiest to zip off the wheel each time so I could easily access the two strut bolts (in my home garage).Do camber first, then toe.

I had notice my tires were pitched a bit so I researched alignment for my sienna. I ordered these and did it my self and turned out really good. Used bolt bolts one on each side no issues so far it been about 4 months.

Great and saved me money too. The mechanic told me that my wheel was too negative. I got this Camber adjusting bolt, set the positive sign facing outward and the Camber is much more centered . . . still got to align the vehicle; however, the alignment is the only expense I'd have to incur now.IMPORTANT-NOTE Really large bolts are involved here in addition the torquing wrench must be really strong and the heads of bolts extra long . . . Please make sure you have the tools . . . may require you to actually look at the bolts and size them up before starting loosening anything. Also don't touch the lower OEM camber bolt until you have placed the adjusting bolt while still not tightening it. In other words replace the upper camber bolt for the adjusting bolt BEFORE taking out the bottom OEM camber bolt . . otherwise you risk breaking the brake lines with the weight of the loose wheel. . . .

Replaced front bolts on my 2006 Toyota Sienna with these cam bolts. Torque specs were in the paper instructions that came with the bolts, but I found them confusing. "Part Size" and corresponding "Torque Specifications" in the instructions are as follows:12 mm -- 60 ft-lbs14 mm -- 100 ft-lbs15 mm -- 100 ft-lbs16 mm -- 150 ft-lbs17 mm -- 150 ft-lbsThe question is, what is that "Part Size"? The original Toyota bolts are 17 mm and have to be torqued to 155 ft-lbs. These replacement bolts have 14 mm thread diameter, so if this is the "Part Size", K90477 should be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I called Moog (or DRiV) support, and at first the rep told me that K90477 were 17 mm. After I questioned that, he spent a few minutes investigating and confirmed that these bolts were indeed 14 mm and had to be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. It would be much easier if the manufacturer included this "Part Size" in the product label on the box.Aside from that, these cam bolts do the job. We had extensive outer side tire wear on both our Toyotas: 2006 Sienna and 2012 Avalon. Replacing original Toyota front strut bolts with these Moogs on the Avalon and pushing to max negative within the acceptable range (-1.5 degrees) resulted in even tire wear and almost doubled the tire life.

Good quality