Twidec/M12 Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V, 4mm Detecting Distance LJ12A3-4-Z/BY

I purchased this inductive sensor as a bed leveling sensor for my Monoprice Select V2. After upgrading the Marlin firmware and making a few changes in the Configuration.h tab I got the sensor to work. I connected the sensor to an Arduino Uno powered with a 9v battery. The sensor is being powered with the input voltage (9v) which gives the sensor enough of a sensing distance that the sensor could be places slightly higher than the hotend nozzle (.12mm). This setup supplied enough voltage to the sensor to get it to detect the aluminum print bed. The higher the input voltage to the sensor the greater the detection distance. I will be trying a voltage divider where the sensor connects to the the Arduino Uno so I can get a higher voltage through the sensor and a lower voltage to the arduino and MKS Gen L board.

Worked great. Allows enough current for a 12 volt automotive relay to work. Was able to fit in with a handmade bracket to the shift gate of the stock Can-Am X3 to allow for reverse lights to come on automatically when put in the reverse position.

Does not work as drop-in replacement for mmu2. Unit functional but not the right size or sensitivity for my project

I installed this switch and a magnet on my shift lever of my RZR to cut out the noisy SBC pre-filter when in park. That way it isn't on when starting or idling in park. Works every time to de-energize the relay when in park. I like the no-contact aspect that eliminates the trauma of slamming the lever into park to activate a mechanical switch. I tried that with a micro switch and it broke in a short time. This switch has been working fine for several trips now.

Like - light weight ~ 45g, flexible wire, repeatable , reasonable price.M48 P9 test Mean: -0.110833 Min: -0.113 Max: -0.108 Range: 0.005 Standard Deviation: 0.001667I used the Ender 3 24V as power source.I chose the PNP model so the output is 24V. I used a voltage divider ( 4.7K and 1K ) to reduce the voltage.Only two issues - You need a metal build surface , I use PEI on spring steel, You need to make a voltage divider to connect it to the Z_End_Stop on the ENDER 3 control board.

They work as expected. When the bullet feed tube is filled the collator stops.

TLDR, Doesnt work as expected. It doesnt drop voltage fully, it leaks voltage.I am not new to 3D printers, been building them and using them for over 5 years. Lately my 4 yr old Z probe sensor quit in my CoreXY, so i got this as a replacement. After wiring this sensor trusting it will work, it didnt and crashed my bed. The 10k ohm internal resistance seems ok, being NO, the output voltage seems ok, but when triggered it leaks voltage and wont trigger the end stop.Pulled an old LJ18A3 i had in a drawer and that one works fine as expected.Bad batch, not happy it didnt work.

Installed it the moment I got it but what a let down. I cut the wires to fit my printer and now I can’t return it.I needed it to detect 4mm or higher but this only detects 2mm.DO NOT BUY if your printer has a removable non-metal build surface like my printer does.

Make sure you use this PNP if you’re connecting to a zero-delay game encoder.. they are active-high devices and switch on the positive instead of negative

Bought this to replace a vehicle speed sensor that cracked and stopped working. This sensor arrived in 2 days which was great and looked similar to the one I was replacing but after installing it, it has limited sensitivity.The sensing distance posted states 4mm but it only senses if within 2mm and only at low RPMs. If I drive under 80kms per hour it works effectively but fails to read at any higher speed. I reduced the distance to less than 1mm and it made no difference.Additionally, it doesn't come with anything but a simple wiring schematic on the sensor itself partially covered by the sticker. I needed to use a magnifying glass to try an read and the schematic is written in Chinese characters only.It will work for a simple application and for those who want to use it the blue wire goes to ground, the brown wire goes to power (4 - 36v DC), and the black wire is the signal wire and goes to your digital display or in my case, the car ECU.

As expected

Not u to spec.