Taulman Nylon Bridge 3D Printing Filament - 1.75 mm

This is strong stuff. It's flexible, but not elastic, and I was unable to break any of the things I printed. You could definitely use thin parts made of this as hinges, although anything thick (think > ~2 millimeters) will be rigid.It's tricky to get it to stick to the build plate, but I can't fault Taulman for that; it's really a nylon thing. I had success printing parts on a raft on top of a piece of printer paper glued to the bed.The spool hole size is also annoying, but not that big of a deal.

Most filament for 3d printers I order are sealed in a vacuum bag and contain decadent material to prevent moisture absorption. Nylon is particularly susceptible of this above other materials. When this stuff arrived, it was in a plastic bag, no vacuum, but it did have a very small of decadent in the center of the spool. It was apparent that it was full of moisture from the start. -- Now I have to put it into the dehydrator for about 8 hours to get the moisture out before i can use it.Also, it is not actually "round", but oblong. That is ok as long as someone knows to compensate for its actual volume instead of programming their machine for exactly 1.75mm. It is more like 1.765mm average.

Really having trouble not getting stringy prints. Increased retraction, decreased temp, still strings. Good solid well adhered layers, and very durable parts, if you don't mind doing a little cleanup after printing.

This is printing really well for me on my Robo3D R1 with Hexagon all-metal hot end. Here are my settings:Extruder: 250 Degrees CBed: 45 Degrees CFilament speed: 40 mm/sec for all except outside perimeter which is 30 mm/secFirst layer speed: 50%Retraction: 4mm (nozzle diameter * 10, so 0.4 * 10 = 4.0, as per Taulman recommendations)Fan off except for bridging, where it is 100%.Some Notes:* The hub on the spool is much more narrow than standard.* The filament is much more flexible than ABS or PLA. My printer uses a basic Wade extruder and I placed a section of of ballpoint-pen tube between the hobbed bolt and the top of the hot end. This will make sure the filament doesn't just curl out of the way instead of feeding in to the hot end. I use the same trick when printing Ninjaflex, Semiflex or TPU filament.* Sticks really, really well to the glass bed painted with diluted PVA wood glue. Almost TOO good, consider diluting your solution more that usual for wide prints or it may not come off!* You may see puffs of what looks like smoke; it's probably just steam but see note about oil below.* IF YOU USE AN OILER, check the smoke-point of your oil! I was printing PLA with an oiler before I swapped in the Bridge nylon and a few layers of the first print came out looking (and smelling) charred and burned. Although I was not using the oiler with the Taulman Bridge there was oil still in the hot end and the oil I use has a smoke point of only 240 degrees C! My extruder was at 255 so the oil was burning! I'm going to move to safflower or peanut oil in the future.

Taulman's Bridge is a great material to print with once you dial it in. It offers incredible strength and fatigue resistance and is my go to material when I need to make a part stronger than I can with ABS. Sure, you might have to print a bit slower and find a correct surface to print on but once you do, you can print parts that are pretty much unbreakable.A few tips for future users:Make sure your bed is perfectly level.Print first layer at 247C, then drop the temp down to 240C.Use UHU glue stick on your bed to get Bridge to stickUse a brim on your part to keep the peeling to a minimumKeep your chamber warmI'm very happy with this material and would definitely recommend it.

Filament was steaming and popping heavily right out of the bag. Spent some hours to dry it, which stopped the steaming and popping, but then it jammed. Cleaned machine, tried extremely slow speeds (like 20mm/s), but machine jammed yet again. Filament was difficult to remove, high resistance, so I checked the diameter and it was all over the place, extreme variation from 1.70 to 1.90 over a matter of inches, which explained the jamming. Basically I have an expensive paperweight at this point. I thought Taulman was supposed to be good quality stuff, apparently not. Will not be buying more Taulman products if this is kind of extrusion quality I can expect.

Extremely strong and great elastic properties. Took a while to figure out how to print it but that is my inexperience rather than the fault of the material. Using E3D v6 Print Head. Printing onto PVA glue at 250c extruder and bed at 70c. Make sure to let the print head sit at 250c for about 10 minutes and then have it extrude a bit to prime it. If you don't do this first it will Jam. My biggest problem was getting it to stick to the bed but with 4:1 water to PVA glue generously applied it worked. I will try glue stick next time. I'm impressed with materials strength and flexibility. However if you are hoping to flex it print it thin because it's that strong. It will elongate to 3x it's length before breaking. Just insane stuff. This will likely be my default material. in the future.

Not the best material I've tried so far. Severe bridging artifacts at recommended temperatures. Try to get your extrusion speed down to 50% if you do not want to jam your extruder.