2 Pack Wireless Controller 2.4G double shock Compatible with PS2 /PS1/PC(Jet Black)

I wanted wireless controllers so I wouldn’t have to sit so close to my tv or risk my dogs passing between me and the PlayStation and step on the wire and pulling the PlayStation into the floor. Got what I wanted. They’re even compatible with both PS1 and PS2.

Llegó bien

I have been buying controllers for my PS1 and PS2 recently, because I just got into modding them back around christmastime. For context, I bought these controllers to replace my old very worn out first-party controllers as well as the stopgap solution of OPL's compatibility settings for PS4 controllers via PADEMU.These controllers are quite nice for the price; they have a very good weight in the hand (the reason why i bought them was because I didn't see any reviews complaining about lightness)The buttons are relatively tight; they have a tiny bit of play in them. The springs in the shoulder buttons are on the light side. The sticks are good; they send digital inputs when analog mode is off, meaning that up on the left stick is equivalent to up on the D-pad (and, funnily, up on the right stick is equivalent to pressing triangle). This is very nice for games like Street Fighter EX3, which for unknowable reasons does not have analog support. However, it should be noted that the sticks are taller than a first-party controller; it's not a Wii Classic controller, but it is definitely a difference. I think this boils down to personal preference.The surface finish is going to be the deciding factor for a lot of people, I think; these controllers have a shiny finish that immediately becomes a mess of fingerprints. It doesn't bother me, but it could bother other people.With regard to connectivity, these controllers are a dream. input lag isn't noticeably worse than any other wireless controller I've used. They aren't bluetooth, but rather when the receiver is connected to a PS1, PS2, or PC, when a controller is turned on it connects automatically. The controllers turn on with a small mechanical switch tucked between the sticks, and will go to sleep after a while to save battery; pressing start or cycling the power will reconnect the controller. I have had these for 4 weeks and have been using them for around an hour most days after work; I haven't needed to change the batteries yet. The product comes with two controllers and two receivers, and whichever controller is turned on first will connect to player one. This works seamlessly on PS2.HOWEVER: these controllers have an issue with the PS1. With one controller plugged in everything works perfectly, zero complaints. But when I try and plug both of them into the same PS1, they seem to both try and connect on the same channel and the result is both controllers stop working. This is frustrating, and has led me to purchase another controller for the PS1 for the purpose of multiplayer. To their credit, the manufacturer doesn't advertise PS1 compatibility so this is probably an known issue.As of writing this, I haven't tried using two of these controllers hooked up to the same laptop via their built-in USB dongle, but I can't imagine that would have any issues. On PC they are detected as a PS3 controller, and I played one game (super monkey ball on Dolphin) as a test and they worked fine.So altogether: these are solid controllers for the PS2, strongly recommend for that purpose; If you want them for PS1, watch out as you functionally only have one controller on original hardware.

Excellent for generic game remotes

Frees a player up from wires & extends distance from console. Controller is easy to sync with the receiver, which plugs into the console. Receivers plug into any USB "A" socket to charge; controller runs on two AA batteries. Controller is an excellent copy of the OEM wired units, including force feedback. Significant improvement.

Works as intended. Beware of dropping, husband dropped one of the controllers on the floor by accident and now that one controller doesn't work. Greatful it was a 2 pack.

These still work after a few years. Haven't tried them on pc . . . But the buttons are decent and I've had no issues connectivity or otherwise. I don't notice a button reaction delay either if that's a worry. Just don't spill soda or food on it and you should be fine.10/10 great product!

I wanted to give a technical review of these Blue Lake Performance controllers to see how they truly hold up against a genuine Sony controller. The software I used to check the Blue Lake Performance controllers on a SCPH-39001 Playstation 2 console is a program called padtest.elf (by jbit). I also used the USB game pad settings tool built into Windows 10 to better visulize the analog stick movement. For my baseline I am using a genuine Sony SCPH-10010 dual shock 2 controller.Black Sony SCPH-10010 dual shock 2:All buttons pressure sensitive and very progressive from 0-255: square, X, O, triange, L1, L2, R1, R2, and D-padBoth joysticks are very progressive in all directions and reach 0 and 255 at end of travel. Sony joysticks have NO dead zone and immediately pickup the slightest pressure.Neutral position of analog sticks:RX 118; RY 119LX 126; LY 130Blue Lake-Controller 1Controller powered up and paired fine. After shutting off, controller will not power back up. Taking batteries out and reinstallaing immediately does not remedy situation. (If I put the batteries into controller 2, they work fine.) I appears if I let the controller sit for about 10 minutes and reinstall the batteries, then it will power up. I repeated this issue twice. This already makes the controller unusable as far as i'm concerned, but i proceeded with testing anyhow. For the record I tried 2 different sets of 1.5V-1.6V new batteries as well.Pressure sensitivity of square, X, O, traingle, L1, L2, R1, R2 and D-pad work well as compared to Sony. Very progressive changes from 0-255 bits when increasing pressure.Neutral position of analog sticks:RX 128; RY 127 (good)LX 128; LY 127 (good)Both joysticks have a large deadzone until movement is detected compared to Sony. See diagram for reference.RX left: reaches 0 bits (full output) halfway through its physical range of travel (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended.RX right: reaches 255 (full output) bits slightly early before end of travel (bad) .RY up: reaches 0 bits early, before end of travel. (bad)RY down: reaches 255 bits early, before end of travel. (bad)LX left: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad)LX right: reaches 255 slightly early before end of travel (bad)LY up: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad)LY down: reaches 0 bits slightly early before end of travel (bad)Blue Lake- Controller 2Controller powered up and paired fine. Pressure sensitivity of square, X, O, traingle, L1, L2, R1, and R2 work well as compared to Sony. Very progressive changes from 0-255 bits when increasing pressure. D-pad DOWN and RIGHT rate of increase to 255 is proper (good) however UP and LEFT is nearly instantaneous (bad)Neutral position of analog sticks:RX 128; RY 127 (good)LX 128; LY 127 (good)RX left: reaches 0 bits halfway through its movement (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended.RX right: reaches 255 bits fine and close to its end of travel (good)RY up: reaches 0 bits early, before end of travel. (bad)RY down: reaches 255 bits early, before end of travel. (bad)LX left: reaches 0 bits halfway through its movement (bad) This results in snappy and instant movements when not intended.LX right: reaches 255 bits fine and close to its end of travel (good)LY up: reaches 0 bits slightly early, before end of travel. (bad)LY down: reaches 255 bits slightly early, before end of travel. (bad)Rumble: The vibration output of the Blue Lake controllers is about half as strong of the Sony. (I tested the controllers side by side in Burnout Revenge while tapping walls.)Using the USB game pad configuration tool on Windows 10, the joystick movement visually looks snappy and abrupt; not smooth and progressive like the Sony. It appears the rate of output of the joystick used in these controllers does not match the rate of Sony. The deadzone of the analog sticks is also very large compared to the Sony which have literally no deadzone. The problem is the movement of the Blue Lake joysticks are detected late and reach full output (0 or 255 bits depending on direction) before the joystick physically runs out of travel. This tells me the potentiometers used do not have the same rate of increase/decrease but they also don't have the same range of output either as there are large deadzones at the end of travel of the joysticks as well. See diagram to better understand this. This will be interpreted by the user as very sensitive joysticks with little or no "analog" feel to them.Lastly when moving the joysticks in a circle, the output seen in the USB gamepad settings tool in Windows 10 shows the output not moving in a circle. When transitioning from UP motion to LEFT motion for example, the UP signal will move to center before LEFT input is even registered. What this tells me is the deadzones are not equal for X and Y registered movement. This might not be detected by the player unless performing special moves in a fighting game where similar kind of joystick motion is common.The button rate of increase is a good match except for a couple of the D-pad directions in the 2nd controller.I'd also like to point out that these controllers are gloss black which shows every single finger print. There is a reason the Sony controller, TV remotes, computer peripherals, Etc. are matte black texture.In summary with Controller 1 having a powering up issue and the analog sticks not being even a relatively close match (to Sony) to properly play any game that uses the analog stick (most PS2 games) I cannot recommend these as a suitable OEM Sony controller replacement.NOTE: Amazon reviews seems to have an error and no longer allows photo uploads.