2.4" 2.42 inch 128x64 OLED LCD Display Module SSD1309 7 Pin SPI/IIC I2C Serial Interface for Arduino UNO R3 DIY Electronic - Green Light

My model looks different than the pictures: 1) pins are on left side (looking at screen), 2) Instructions for switching from SPI to I2C are on the silkscreen, 3) no resistors under the ribbon cable.In my picture you can see the back of the module, with instructions on the silkscreen on how to change from the default SPI (R5 bridged, R4 & R9 open) to I2C (R5 open, R4 & R9 bridged). I did NOT have to disengage the ribbon cable.A couple notes:- The Adafruit_SSD1306 library works even though this is a SSD1309, and I highly recommend it.- When using I2C, the DC pin state determines the address. DC low/floating is 0x3C, DC high is 0x3D.- The RESET pin must be managed properly for this OLED to work, even in I2C mode. The screen is initialized by first receiving power and then (for Arduino) receiving the .begin() command. When .begin() runs, it resets the screen through the RESET pin and voila, you see the startup image. I tried a variety of methods to get it to work without connecting the reset pin, including a RC timer and software reset commands, without any luck. You can connect the reset pin to any available output pin on your Arduino, just make sure to specify it when you initialized the screen object, e.g. Adafruit_SSD1306 OLED(128, 64, &Wire, CHOSEN_PIN)- There does not appear to be pullup resistors on the I2C pins. If you're connecting directly to an Arduino-like or anything else with I2C pullups, no problem, but you may have to add pullups for anything else like a basic multiplexer.Overall, works great. Bright screen, text is easy to read, fast response time, tons of versatility built into the library (text scrolling, simple graphics). Highly recommend for the price, if you don't mind a little setup effort.

The display that I received was not the display that is shown on the listing or in some of the reviews - the pins are on the side of the display and not the top. Absolutely zero documentation was included other than a cryptic table in silk screen on the board itself. Extremely detailed surface mount DIY soldering of miniscule components is required if you want to switch this display from SPI to I2C, which did not work for me even after I found out (from the other reviews) what to do. As far as I can tell, this unit is DOA

Although this 2.4" module uses the SSD1309 controller it works fine with the SSD1306 driver I use for the 0.96 inch OLED module Amazon also sells. They are both 128x64. As others have pointed out, some rework is required to convert this module from the default SPI interface to I2C. Some genius decided to put three of the tiny resistor pads that require jumpers UNDER the flex cable that attaches the LCD panel to the board. After some study I figured out how to unplug this fragile cable without mishap. Two tiny black plastic handles flank the white connector. Gently sliding them away from the connector relieves the holding force and the cable comes out easily, To reinsert the cable push it back in and snap the two black handles back into the white enclosure. If you don't happen to have any zero ohm 0603 surface mount resistors handy (!!!) a simple wire or solder jumper works fine at each of the sites. You need four jumpers, one outside the LCD cable (after removing its resistor) and three under it as marked on the board. I power the board with 3.3V and confirmed that the RES pin does nothing--apparently it's only for the SPI interface.

I have lots of various sizes of Blue/white/yellow OLED displays but this is my first green one. It does not disappoint. The display is much brighter (more NITS) than my others. I followed the directions and converted to IIC. Use your thumbnail to push the black ribbon connectors on each side of connector parallel to and away from the connector about 1-2mm. I used some painters tape to temporarily hold the ribbon out of the way. Remove the 0 ohm resistor at R8. Make sure the gap where the resistor used to be is open and not soldered together. The resistor is way too small for me to use so I tossed it. Use solder to connect R9, R10, R11 & R12 pads. Replace the ribbon and press the. Black ribbon connectors back into place with your thumbnail. Done. I want to buy more of these when they are back in stock. The green color is very bright and vivid (almost neon).

The display I received was configured for SPI. To convert to I2C follow the hints printed on the PCB silkscreen:1. Move the 0 Ohm resistor from R8 to R9.2. Solder shorting jumpers (or 0 Ohm 0603 resistors) at locations R10, R11, and R12.These modifications set the I2C address to 0x78/0x79 (SA0 is low). For additional info, download the SSD1309 data sheet from the web.The image attached shows the converted board.

Don’t buy unless you have a great understanding of how to switch the display from SPI to I2C. You don’t get any documentation as to how to convert this particular display and after spending days researching I’m still coming up blank. Never did get it to work so I don’t know if it was the confusion on the connection or the display was just junk to begin with. Either way not wasting any more time on this one and looking for a 2.42 oled that is already configured as I2C.

First off, what I received was not the same as pictured. Also, this is spi not i2c. The connector is on the side and there are no instructions on converting it to i2c. I think i may have found one web side that talks about converting it to i2c. I mean who wants spi these days. It should be defaulted to i2c not spi. I may return this display.Okay, so after many days of searching online I figured out how to hook up this display and get it working. Ypu have to include the ug82 and spi library, but works great so I have updated my review to 4 stars. I am not sure if I am going to leave it as spi or try to convert it to i2c. There are no real instructions on converting this board so would be more trial and error since there is not even a schematic available and I don't even know the company that made it.