Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin Easy to Print Non-Brittle High Precision Standard Photopolymer 405nm UV-Curing 8K Resin 3D Print Liquid for LCD DLP 3D Printing (Metal Grey, 1kg)

Does the job but very strong smell.

i have a elegoo saturn and this worked very well i have had no fails using this (apart from my own packing this in to fill the build plate and supports getting stuck to other models). it barely makes a pulling noise from the fep and works fine at 28c (ive had it up to 33c in the vat with no problem) temperature as i live in Aussie and well its warm here. The detail and pigment is on point (4k screen 0.50 layer height no anti a ) and am happy with the results ill be trying in on a mono x and a 4k mini soon to see the differences in res and machines Cons ..... if you drop minis from bench (900mm) height onto tiles it will shatter (ive busted a few small minis like this ) compared to some others its a bit smelly ( i didn't think so until i had used a bunch of other resins) but still not to bad. a bit more expensive than other resins, but hey i only did one tank clean while using this stuff compared to eco and craftsman where eco was after every print (always had at least one fail) and craftsman with the occasional fail , so in that regard maybe not so expensive. these prints were done with - burnin layers 4 exp time 30 trans 0 light off 0 lift 12 speed 40 normal layer 0.05 light off 0 Exp 3 lift dis 7 150/150 lift -retract speed

Me ha sorprendido mucho para bien. En primer lugar, las dos resinas Siraya fast que he probado, huelen mucho menos que otras que he tenido. En cuanto a resistencia/tenacidad, no he hecho pruebas, pero en mi caso no es lo que busco. El acabado de la pieza, mate, en ese gris marino, y el nivel de detalle y resolución, son espectaculares. La figura está impresa con una Elegoo Mars 3 pro (4k) y estoy muy satisfecho con el resultado. Recomiendo 100%.

Was recommended this by a friend. Quality is great. Worth the price.

I'm in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but I've legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). I'll describe some of the cases I used this for below. MY USE CASES: One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but it's still perfectly usable. Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically that's about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point. CLEANING: Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you don't plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me. If you've never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along: Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). You'll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash. CONCLUSION: If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.

Nach einigen prints mit dem Fast Grey und Fast Navy Grey und teilweise auch einigen prints mit 20% Tenacious, kann ich wirklich sagen, dass es ein echt gutes resin ist. Positives: - sehr kurze Belichtungszeit (1,8s für 35um mit Mars 3 Pro beim Grey, 2,2s beim Navy Grey) - gute Details, wobei sie beim Navy Grey deutlich besser zur Geltung kommen - nicht zu spröde (Figurenteile konnten gebohrt und gut bearbeitet werden ohne zu brechen) - behält seine Dimension und schrumpft nach dem curen so gut wie gar nicht - Empfohlene Einstellungen von Siraya Tech für die gängigen Drucker funktionieren gut, können aber auch verfeinert werden Negativ: - Pigmente separieren sich schnell (beim Navy Grey deutlich schneller als beim Grey), es muss vor jedem Druck sehr gut gemischt werden - beim Navy Grey entstehen sehr schnell und deutlich sichtbare weiße Ablagerungen an Vertiefungen beim austrocknen an der Luft nach dem Waschen (ist schnell mit einer weichen Zahnbürste entfernt) In den Bildern sieht man die Farbunterschiede und detailgrad ganz gut. Alle Figuren sind im 1:8 Maßstab, also ca 24-26cm. Clive im Navy Grey, Dimitri mit Grey und Squall mit Grey und 20% Tenacious (etwas Detailverlust beim Grey+Tenacious Mix).