EasyCap DC60, USB 2.0 audio video grabber converter capture card with UTV007 chip set for Win 7, 8, 10.

As a Linux user I struggled to find a suitable device that was advertised as "Linux compatible". There are a number of similar devices under the "EasyCap" moniker that use different chip sets, etc. As this was advertised as using the UTV007 chip set I took a gamble on Linux compatibility even though this is not mentioned in the product info. I was not disappointed; worked straight out of the box without having to install any drivers and I quickly had it working with OBS studio (which is an excellent free application for video capture). Quality is great and unit faithfully captures VHS tapes via the composite (CVBS) input and audio connectors. No visible noise and resulting file is hard to distinguish from original tape. I'm sure there are better video capture devices available, but if all you want to do is convert some home videos or old VHS films, then this is hard to beat for the price. Would strongly recommend. Note: As I'm using with Linux I have not used the bundled capture software for Windows and so cannot comment on how this performs.

LIKE: It captures full frame, 720x576 from PAL sources, and works with V4L and DirectShow, pretty much out of the box. (ie. it works well on Linux and Windows ... I haven't tried on a Mac yet) There is no "blending" of interlaced fields or frames ... Anywhere! And to be honest; For a device at this price point, that's a MAJOR positive. The price is very reasonable. Being a USB device, it's relatively simple to pass it through unaltered to a Virtual Machine, and it's easy to use on portable devices, like laptops. It would also be good for a hobby project on a Raspberry Pi type device where analogue cameras were a source for security footage or old school DVR. It seems to automatically detect the SD video format, (PAL[B,G,I etc.], NTSC, SECAM etc.) and converts *whatever* the source is to either 720x576, or 640x480 with 4:2:0 (6-bit) colour. (*see the notes) 640x480 was what I got from a C=64 in NTSC mode, but it seemed to get confused once and give me that from a PAL source, which I find very strange, but it's clearly doing a lot of work in the hardware which cannot be a simple matter. DISLIKE: In short "it's clearly doing a lot of work in the hardware." It seems to be set up for NTSC standards, (or maybe, modern 60hz computer monitors) and the default internal capture rate seems to be fixed at 30FPS(frames per second) progressive. PAL footage (UK broadcast standard, and what most UK sold cameras and players are set to before retail) is 50fps (fields per second) or, if you're dealing with progressive material, (film / cine captures to PAL) 25FPS. (frames per second) Neither of those divides easily to 30FPS. The approach works, and to the untrained eye, it isn't too unpleasing. It seems to de-interlace the input, to give 50,(PAL/SECAM) or 60(NTSC) progressive frames, then it throws away an integer number of these progressive frames until it gets to 30FPS, and if you choose 25 (which *should be* ideal for PAL) it throws away another 5 from the 30. (and that gets really quite stuttery in smooth motion, particularly if the source was a progressive 25FPS interlaced to PALs 50fps, where you'll get duplicate frames and completely dropped frames in sequence) The software provided requires a license key code be entered from a screenshot illustrated in the manual, which is provided on a paper card (nice print quality) and as a PDF on the disc. This "feels like" commercial software piracy, (or at least abandonware) though I wouldn't like to investigate if the seller has paid for this as a bulk license. The disc is a 8cm size, and many optical drives (even if you still have one) don't have the insert for such a disc. It would be better available from a download link, or on a USB device. I used an old machine running Linux to DD the disc to an ISO image which I mounted in the Windows 10 machine without an optical drive. Getting hold of the audio feed is a little tricky, and quality is poor. On Linux every time you plug the device in it gets a different audio pin, (named "hw: x,x" where x is 0 to 3) so you need to hunt through all the possible sources until you find the right one. Windows kindly names them and doesn't show unconnected ones, but in either case, there is often an annoying AC / ground hum on the line, and only unplugging the device and plugging it in again will clear that. However, I've used a lot of analogue capture devices over the years, and have always found it better to live-capture the audio through a regular sound card anyway. *Some* feedback from the video is always present, but from this device it's more noise than signal. If the sound card captures audio with a delay, or even ahead of the video, it's not hard to realign in any video editing suite, and 20ms is the worst I've seen. Maybe keep the noisy source as a timing reference? I *could not* get the S-VHS connector to give a colour signal. All it ever provided was a grey-scale image with noise over it. (similar to SECAM captured with PAL settings or vise versa) My guess is that it is "automatically detecting" the input video type *wrong.* Whatever, I couldn't use the S-VHS signal for anything, though I don't actually have a source which would gain significant benefit from it. (S-VHS player, or DV camcorder that I can't connect to IEEE1394 digitally) At most it should just be less noise on the wire from the video source to the capture device. I'm mostly working with VHS or Betamax players, or old 8-bit computers. (which I haven't RGB modded ... yet) Notes: It seems to have built-in hardware de-interlacing. This is why I say ideal for "amateur". It's extremely convenient, and failing to deal with interlacing artefacts when digitally editing is one of the biggest things that makes amateur capture look really crappy. *However*, if you know what you're doing, you can gain much better results by manually de-interlacing after capture, and before further editing. Different sources get better results by using different de-interlacing strategies, and while the de-interlacing performed is far from the worst I've seen, it clearly is degrading the overall quality, and more so on some sources than others. The companion disc contains only Windows software, and the software provided isn't really much better than that which comes with the Windows 10 OS. (has more options, but they don't achieve much other than cluttering the interface) The device worked with Windows 10 "Camera" app without installing anything. It also works fine with VLC and OBS on both Windows and Linux without installing anything else. If you are still using an XP machine (and offline, why not?) there are still much better options available for free. I'm fairly certain Windows Movie Maker, would work on XP, though it would try to produce those nasty WMV files that are a pain to work with. I couldn't get VirtualDub to see the capture device, sadly, but I suspect that's simply because it was written to utilize VFW, (video for Windows) not DirectShow. I haven't tried modified versions (VirtualDub2 or VirtualDub Mod) which better support DirectX/DirectShow, but I suspect they will be more focused on codecs (file encoding) and filters (transformation) than capture. (input source) 6-bit colour sounds rubbish when we're used to 16-bit audio, even for a mono stream, and 8-bit (256 levels) is determined as the best a human eye can see. If you're not familiar, let me reassure you that digital HDR (high dynamic range) streams tend to be 4:4:4, 10-bit, colour and this is after compression. With an analogue source, you wouldn't gain image quality using this. The first time you'll see colour degradation is when your source was something natively VGA, or RGB. Computers ... Even a BBC micro would look better scan-doubled to VGA, than 4:4:4, never mind 4:2:0, because it would natively be RGB, (all be it 1:1:1 RGB on a BBC micro, 2:2:2 on a ZX Spectrum, that's still "cleaner" colour, because no colour breakout has been done) no broadcast video was, or *is* this colour quality though the resolution is *much* higher now; Even YouTube, or NetFlix are not. (which is why colours can look dark, or washed out on gaming streams compared to playing them locally) You *can* achieve some good restoration from a pure RGB stream, but you'd need to have a studio quality source to notice it, and be messing with very high complexity filters, and in any case, the device wouldn't be able to stream that quality video over USB-2 in real time. You'd either need a PCI card, or the device would need it's own internal storage. (or USB-3/C but I've not seen such an option) It *could* be better, but few of us would notice, and few of those would have a source to take advantage of it. On 8/16-bit computers, I convert to RGB to VGA, (possibly scan-doubling) then VGA to HDMI, then capture from HDMI. (USB-3) If I don't rescale the VGA signal, it's not a "standard" HDMI resolution, but my HDMI capture seems to accept it without issue. So, if old computers or consoles is your aim, this isn't the *right* solution, unless you really aren't bothered about quality, so much as price and ease of use. It'd be fine for submitting speed-runs of Mario on your physical (of course, otherwise the run is invalid) NES, I suspect. Final grumble: I'm not concerned about the colour compression, as USB-2 doesn't really have bandwidth for more. I'm not hating the de-interlacing either. (surprisingly) I would like to be able to turn that off, or at least get 1:1 frames from fields de-interlacing, (scan-doubled) and it seems to be processing at a rate that *could* do that, internally. The problem with the device is that it tries to do too much *for you*. That may be what makes it so great for amateur use, but I feel the better place for that would be in the software provided. It's not hard for software to go though all the settings and just pick the best one, while it's actually quite complex for hardware to do that. (added cost?) Even my grumble about not being able to use the S-VHS connector, if I'm correct about it misidentifying my video region format, letting me manually select would help. To be fair to it, it gets most of it "right", but because that's all set in hardware, the things it gets wrong CANNOT be corrected by the user AT ALL. Since I know what I'm doing, I find that incredibly frustrating. But it is a good purchase none the less, and if you want an "it just works" solution ... Well, it *does* just work. If you're wondering why it doesn't look great, you need to get more technical, and do it yourself. (which it does not allow) But to be fair, it does look pretty good, at first glance. If your source is NTSC, it *would* look great under almost any level of scrutiny, though you're still technically losing every other field. But it's reconstruction seems to take in data from the "lost" field, so it's not as bad as the "technical" loss would appear. Still, it's not advanced enough to "motion compensate", it's more that it blends over "combing" artefacts, and passes through low contrast areas of the "lost" field. (at a guess) When it's not an even number of fields being "lost", as with UK PAL sources, it's more noticeable in motion. Which is a shame.

Cheap as chips and working perfectly so far. Using it to capture a NES signal. Very happy.

The worst electronic item I've ever bought off Amazon. * Manual is a bad photocopy A4 * mini-CD has drivers has manufacturing defects and won't read correctly * No other website provided for where to get drivers when the CD is broken * Device won't even show up in Windows Device Manager when plugged in.

Worked fine copying an old wedding video from a 20 year old JVC cassette tape camcorder. Source quality wasn't brilliant - but the gizmo seemed to made a fair copy. Included Arcsoft software which loaded OK on my PC (which also recognised the stick on the 2nd attempt). Not sure why it hasn't worked for others. Will use on all my old VHS tapes. Great value for money - exceeded my expectations.

Finally an Easycap that works with Win10? To update software for a Vista easycap would have been £70! So that is now in the bin, and this one is working seamlessly from VCR to Laptop and DVD Writer.

1. CD does not contain Video editing software as advertised and as stated on the installation instructions. 2. Instructions are very confusing and do not reflect screens presented when trying to install. 3. CD contains Direct X 9 which will not run under Windows 10. 4. Eventually got it working but not impressed.

Software installation requires a serial number supposedly on the cd cover. it is not there or anywhere else in or on the packaging. Without it one can not load the software. This is a scam.

Alles ok

No es utv 007, es utvf 007. Por lo menos el que me llegó a mi. El fabricante no es fushicai, es macrosil. En mi caso es para usar en Raspberry para ambilight y me ha servido, aunque cuando hagas dmesg no aparezca ninguna descripción solo el id. Lo probé primero en VLC desde capturadora y no tuve que instalar ningún driver, lo reconoció bien. Posteriormente Hyperion.ng también.

Utile

Produit incompatible acec certains magnetoscopes ... A eviter ne fonctionne pas chez moi !!!

No me ha gustado porque el CD que mandan esta "reventado" y no sirve para nada