Logan Graphic Products Inc. 450-1 Artist Elite Mat Cutter for Framing, Art, and Design or Creative Signage Projects-best for At-Home Framers

Like a previous reviewer, I've found the Logan 450-1 to provide disappointing accuracy, both in sizing and squaring the mat and cutting the window openings. Here is what I've experienced:1) Measuring Bar: Measurements using the scale on the measuring bar are inaccurate by approximately 1/8", causing significantly inaccurate mat sizing (and therefore window opening sizes).2) Mat Guide: Mat guide scale is inaccurate by approximately 1/8", causing significantly inaccurate mat window (opening) sizes (compounded by the errors in mat sizing, noted above).3) Mat guide is not square to squaring bar, causing errors in squaring mat board (~ 5/16" error at 40")In addition to these accuracy problems in cutting and squaring, the bevel cutter over-cuts at the end of the bevel cut by 5/16", leaving visible scoring on the face of the finished mats, marring the mat's appearance.I'm both disappointed and surprised at the lack of precision and accuracy of my 450-1 mat cutter. It should not be difficult, using routine manufacturing techniques, such as jigs or automated cutting and drilling machines to manufacture an item like the 450-1 to tolerances, even in wood products, to within 0.01". Indeed even standard cabinet manufactures achieve tolerances well within in these standards, involving multiple pieces and cuts.Hopefully, the 450-1 mat cutter that I received is simply a defective item and can be replaced with another that can achieve reasonable accuracy precision without requiring the use of separate measuring devices and framing squares. I've submitted a complaint to Logan Graphics and will update my review when I get a response.Update 4/19/17: Thanks to truly excellent customer support by Logan Graphics Products I've been able to resolve all the above issues. In fact, some of the problems I encountered were entirely or largely "operator error".The problem I experienced with the Squaring Bar not being square to the Mat Guide (and also to the Guide Rail) was corrected by loosening the screws holding the Squaring Bar, squaring it to the Guide Rail with a carpenters framing square (which also squared it to the Mat Guide). The problem with the bevel cutter over-cuts at the corners were resolved by carefully adjusting the bevel cutter to just barely cut through the front of the mat.The only remaining issue is the error in sizing mats using the Measuring Bar. Logan Graphics will be sending me a replacement Measuring Bar scale to correct this problem.Logan Graphic Products responded within 24 hours to my message posted on their customer support web page, and have worked with me to resolve - or correct - each and every issue. Outstanding customer service!!

I paint in watercolor at an intermediate level and have reached the point that I am pleased with the outcome of many of my efforts. Some I want to display in my home and others I want to give as gifts. What I don't want is to pay a fortune for someone to mat and frame them. My husband has made some frames and I wanted to make my own mats. I have some physical challenges that interfere with me cutting mats with just a ruler and straight edge. I ordered this mat cutter to cut mats and foam board. I was able to assemble the unit myself and follow the instructions to utilize the unit to measure and cut what I needed. I could not be more pleased. It will pay for itself in short order.

First, this is an excellent mat cutter and at around $200 it is an incredible value. It is large enough to handle 32x40 mat boards (4-ply) and foam core (either 1/8" or 3/16") with mat borders up to about 6". This should be enough for framing needs for artwork up to 20x30 in size. I regularly cut mats for 16x20 and 16x24 prints, sometimes using a common 22x28 frame, and sometimes custom sizing to 20x24 and 20x28 respectively. This mat cutter can do this work with few hassles, and it very quickly paid for itself. A mat cut at 22x28 at a frame shop will run me around $35. Whole mat board costs less than half that. So this was a good decision.That being said, it is not perfect, it has quirks, and you will need practice. It is not the "junk" that a few people on here claim it to be, and none of its quirks are deal-breakers. It can square a mat just fine. It can make straight cuts just fine. It just means that you need to spend more money if you want to be more efficient, and that you SHOULD spend money if you are going to be doing a LOT of framing. But this mat cutter has everything you need to do single-opening cuts in a 4-ply mat and do it well. Still, you will be more efficient with the 750-1 and it only costs $100 more. A lot more efficient, so you should seriously consider what your time is worth and if you have the budget, you will want to step up.The pros:* great price* handles 4-ply mat boards up to 32x40* handles 1/8" and 3/16" foam board* has production stops for bevel cutting* has a cutting stop/guide for the ruler* big enough to be easy to use but not too big to manageThe cons:* The squaring arm is short. I'd say it's too short. You need to be careful when you are squaring a mat or even just aligning an edge because you don't have a lot of length to work with.* The squaring arm is only on one side. You really need a square on the ruler side as well. You'll have to step up to the 550-1/Simplex Classic to get that, but I'd skip that model and go straight to the 750-1.* The ruler only goes out to 20", so if you need an edge longer than 20" you have to cut on the opposite side. You might think this is simple math, but mat boards may not be exactly 32"x40". They might be 32-1/8" x 40-3/16". So you need to measure with a tape measure very caefully if you are going to cut your 40" mat to a 28" length because just setting the edge at 12" on the ruler is not necessarily going to be right.* It's difficult to cut less than 1-1/2" off of a mat or foam board because the straight cutter is designed to "glide" on the surface of the board you are cutting in order to keep it level. If you have to trim less than this from a mat's edge, you'll want to use a slip mat alongside your mat to give your straight cutter an even surface.* The base is made of MDF. It is flat, but you need to store it flat for it to stay that way. DO NOT STORE IT STANDING UP OR ON ITS SIDE. It must lay flat. Which means: You. Will. Need. Room.Some advice for how to use this to get good results:First, expect that you are going to tear up a couple of mats as you are learning your way around it. Just factor that into your costs right now. Practice on some scrap mat board if you have any large pieces, but the best way to learn is to actually cut real mats to the size you need.When making a straight cut, you need to use a straight, fluid motion with your arm. Stand so your forearm is lined up perfectly with the straight cut line and your upper arm is perpendicular and in-line. Pull your arm straight back in a fluid motion. Step backwards if you have to to make sure you don't rotate your shoulder, arm or upper body. You want the pulling motion to be perfectly straight. Keep pulling and don't slow down until you pull the straight cutter completely off the end of the rails. Do this and you will get super-straight cuts. Maybe a 1/16" variation in a 20" edge, but that is well within tolerance for framing.Change your blades often. Go ahead and buy the pack of 100 blades RIGHT NOW. You are going to use them. This mat cutter comes with three of four and you will burn through blades quickly. The second key to a straight cut is a sharp blade. Once you start feeling a little resistance, turn the blade around to use the other side. Then once that starts to wear, throw it out and put in a fresh blade. DO NOT SKIMP ON BLADES.The rails for the bevel cutting guide stick out past the edge of the mat cutter's base. They will scratch up your mat board because they are hard plastic with edges. It's a pain to constantly remove and install them so just leave them in there all the time, and lay a sheet of paper over them (tape it to the mat cutter's base) so that they don't come into direct contact with your mat board.Don't press hard on the guide rail when making a cut. It's not necessary, and if you press with too much force it will flex. You just need enough force to hold the mat in place. It does not take much. Gentle but firm pressure is sufficient.Get yourrself a good, metal carpenter's square and a metal rule. Use these to check your mat for square before you make your cuts. Measure twice, cut once, as the old adage goes. It will slow you down but you'll get better results.Above all else? Practice, practice, practice. Your first few mats will be not-so-great. You'll get better quickly. I promise.

Great mat cutter, it can handle full sheets of mat board. Great for mass producing same size mats. Many extras to make mat cutting enjoyable. I don't care for the pull towards me bevel cutter. Still using the push model cutter.

My old Logan cutter needed replacing after 40 years. I ordered this one and it was just in time for cutting more than 20 mats for a show. The cutters work very well. It is easy to get replacement blades but so far I have cut about 30 mats without need of replacement blades. The straight cuts are done with one tool. The other tool cuts perfect 45 degree angles. When you get a white core mat with a nice color (say blue) then the bevel shows the nice, clean white border around picture or drawing.

I couldn't trust the rulers at all. I can use it if I make pencil marks and eye ball my cut. I have experience in picture framing and should have saved more money and bought a Fletcher. If you need accurate cuts +/- 1/16" make sure you have extra mats and boards. I worked for a professional framing company and thought this might work. Depressing