AUX 3.5mm Cable Replacment Connect MP3 Phone Audio Compatible with Mazda 2006+ Car Player (2 Meter / 80 Inch Long)

Purchased this cable when I found out that the 2008 Mazda 6 that I had didn't have an Auxiliary input.This clips right into the back of the stock stereo, and the other end plugs into your audio source, just press the "Media" button on the radio and voila - you've got and Aux input. If your phone is charging, you might end up getting a bit of ground loop feedback through the speakers. If its bad enough, you might need to get a ground loop isolator. It wasn't too bad in my car, but yours might be different. Not a fault of the cable though.Installation isn't too bad - if you're comfortable installing car audio products. Installation on the Mazda 6 required removal of the center console (held in by clips) removal of the 3 HVAC controls (2 have screws behind them), removal of 2 screws under the center console, and removal of one screw behind the glove box. (Which requires removal of the glove box)I initially consulted YouTube for some installation videos, there were a few that showed the process, and following them proved to be reasonably easy. Here's the steps I ended up taking.1) remove shift knob from automatic shifter (manuals might be different?) - just turn it to loosen it. It's threaded on there.2) remove center console - start pulling up near your cup holders and you should see a gap, you might need to do a bit of prying here. The center console is made up of two pieces (one around the shifter handle and another around the e-brake handle). They're clipped together but come apart fairly easily. I did have to separate the two pieces to clear the e-brake handle, the unclip from each other with ease. I also had to put the shift lever into N or D to clear the shift handle. There are two light bulbs that illuminate the gear shift indicator, you'll need to twist those out, the 12V accessory plug in the front of the center console will also need disconnected. There's a latch on the plug you'll need to press with a flat screwdriver, and it should unclip.3) You'll need to unscrew the two bolts that are below the HVAC controls. They should be exposed now that you took the center console out.4) You'll need to unscrew the two bolts behind the HVAC controls. Pull off the temperature control and the vent control - simply grab the knob and pull outward. I also removed the fan control kob - not sure if it was entirely needed. Unscrew these two screws you just exposed.5) Remove the glovebox - you'll need to press on each side of the glove box, which will allow it to swing lower (past the normal open position), just pull the entire glovebox to you, and it should unclip off of the hinges.6) This will expose a single 10MM bolt that is bolted into the side of the of the stereo, you'll need a ratchet with an extension to reach this bolt. Remove this bolt.7) Time to pull the stereo out! - You'll have to do some prying, there are clips holding the stereo in, I was able to pry under the clock/display which gave me enough leverage to free up the stereo. Be careful here because the plastic around the stereo is easily dented scraped by metal tools.8) You've got the stereo loose! - Look at the back of the stereo, there should be a single spot that your new cable will fit. It's a white jack on the back of the stereo. Mine was on the left hand side of the stereo (looking at the front). It should plug in securely, but there might not be an audible click sound from plugging the cable in.9) Test it out! - Make sure it works, plug your phone/audio device into the 3.5mm plug cable, start some music, turn the stereo on - put the key in ACC mode, press the media button on the front of the stereo and you should be greeted by your music through your car speakers.10) Route the cable. I was able to route the cable down the left side of the stereo area, and out the right side of the drivers footwell. From there I pulled the slack out of it, and had plenty of cable to plug in my phone.11) Reassemble. Push the stereo back into place, install all of the screws, bolts and knobs back into place. Clip the center console back in, put the glovebox back in, and you should be done! Don't forget to reconnect the 12V accessory plug and to reinstall the light bulbs around the gear selector!

I'll list the good, the bad, and some installation tips.The price of the product is unbeatable, especially since as we've seen with the iphone 5, your iphone integration unit can quickley become obsolete. Just a simple line-in. Works for everything. The sound quality is pretty good. I think a cd sounds better but that's to be expected. But there is no audio feedback from the engine, even when using a basic audio cable extension.The only negative I had was that the cable is a tad short - but that really depends on where you want it coming out. I ran mine through the center armrest box. The cable stretched the whole way, but only had about 4 inches of slack once it entered the bottom of the armrest. If you run yours through your glove compartment or just out the side of the center console (near your legs) you'll be fine. I didn't notice a sound quality difference when I added an extension to mine coming through the armrest.As for installation tips, these will only apply to the 2008 Mazda 6, though I'm sure other Mazda6s of that generation will be similar. Here's a list of tips.1) Use the GTA car kits video on youtube as a guide.2) When taking off the 4 front-facing screws that hold in the radio, make sure you get the correct bottom 2 screws. Because I'm tall, I didn't see the actual 2 lower screws and instead unscrewed 2 screws that were holding in the large plastic piece that makes up the armrest. After yanking on the radio for a while and questioning my strength and manhood, I found the correct screws.3) That being said, if you partially remove that large plastic piece (same piece that makes up the armrest) it actually makes threading the cable much easier. You'll need to remove 5 additional screws (besides the 2 I mistakenly removed). 1 one each side near the driver's and passenger's legs. 1 in the middle near the hand brake, and 2 inside the armrest. Also, disconnect the armrest power outlet. You don't need to take it all the way out, just loose enough at the front so you can thead the audio cable down from the back of the radio.4) At the bottom of the armrest box you'll need to make the hole bigger to help the cable fit through. The holes are actually a little plastic drain. Just punch out a little bit of the plastic with a lockblade and thread the cable through.5) To make sure my short cable won't ever fall back down inside, I zip-tied the 4 inches of slack that I had to the little plastic drain at the bottom of the armrest box. It's solid.It sounds complicated but it isn't, trust me. If you are even a little mechanically inclined (like, you set up a Big Lot's bookshelf once) you'll be totally fine. It sounds like there's some improvisation and ghetto-rigging involved, but it's very straightforward. It doesn't take long and it's well worth the effort and money savings. The hardest part is threading the cable down from the radio. Just get a flashlight, stand on your head if you have to, and look for a clear path.

Bought this a few weeks ago. Wired into my stereo and fished through the car to have it come out of the center console. Worked great. First issue was a slight buzz or static sound when the charger's connected at the same time as the aux. Second was that the aux cord that connects to the stereo is actually a little flimsy. After a few weeks the music would play out of one speaker or another or not at all or perfectly depending on how the aux is connected to the phone. Can only blame myself for maybe being too careless with the cord. Looked online over the buzzing and you can buy something called a ground loop to rid yourself of the buzzing while charging. You plug the ground loop like you would your phone and have another aux cord run from the loop to the phone. Think of it as an extension between two aux cords. Aux is included with ground loop btw so good deal. Ordered that as well as another aux to stereo cord since mine had broken and figured that I can leave the ground loop and aux to stereo cord in my console and run another aux which I'll consider a disposable one from the console to my phone. That was if I mess up the aux again I can just get another aux and connect it back to the ground loop and avoid having to take apart my stereo again. It's a good product. You just have to do your best to make it last for you. 10/10 would recommend.