POLISI3DAll Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper Titanium TC4 Throat High Temperature for Creality 3D Printer CR10 V3 S4 S5 Ender 3 V2 Ender3 pro Ender 5 CS3 Hotend Upgrade

I’ve only had this bimetal throat for about 10 days but installation of this throat has COMPLETELY changed the behavior of my printer, but I’m jumping ahead.For those reviewers who said this doesn’t work with a bowden style printer, I’m not sure what to say but it certainly DOES work with a bowden style printer. I have an FLSUN Q5 which is a bowden delta printer and this thing has made all the difference in the world.The original OEM throat that came with my printer has a throughout internal diameter which is equal to the outside diameter of PTFE bowden tubing which means that when the original throat was screwed into the heat block and butted against the print nozzle, it allowed the bowden tubing to go all the way through and also butt up against the print nozzle on the inside, back side of the nozzle. I had even upgraded to Capricorn tubing and fittings but, if I made it past a half dozen medium sized prints (roughly 200-300g of filament) that was a feat within itself. The tubing would continue to clog inside the throat to the point that the pressure would tear the tubing at the teeth inside the bowden connector and basically it just wouldn’t print anymore, or, best case it would continue to print horribly. Seam separation, not enough filament and a host of other issues. I usually kept two Capricorn tubing replacement kits on hand to just replace the tubing and fittings when this would occur. I had never thought about why this would happen so much until I installed the POLISI3D bimetal throat but it makes sense now that I understand the difference in design.With the original throat allowing the bowden tubing to go all the way through, the bowden tubing itself becomes something of an insulator not allowing the set print heat temp to actually reach the filament until the filament reached the nozzle. This being the case, it’s no wonder that the filament continued to clog within the tubing, inside the throat.As you can see in the pictures the design of this bimetal throat is such that the bowden tubing extends only about 4-5mm inside the throat which is 27.5mm in length, where there is then a 1.75mm hole (or 1.76 or so) the diameter of filament, allowing the filament to be subjected to the actual set print temperature within the throat that’s metal, not PTFE tubing, so there are no insulation properties reducing the heat to the filament.Since installing this, filament loads MANY times easier, it unloads MANY times easier and I’ve now made it through about 1,500g (roll and a half) of PLA filament without a single hiccup. I’ve also printed much less but PETG and basically the same results. Easier loading, unloading and flawless prints. I wished I had found this months ago, I would have saved on replacing so many bowden tube and fitting kits.The listing says it’s for Creality printers but as long as your heat block throat is 27.5mm +/- a half mm or so, this will work. You basically want it to be able to butt and tighten against the nozzle, not the heat block itself.Time will tell, as said it’s only been 10 days or so but this $19 dollar upgrade appears that it’s going to save me a world of headaches.PS. I’m assuming that those reviewers who say it constantly clogs probably have a situation where the throat is bottoming out against the heat block and not the nozzle leaving a slight gap between the end of the throat and the back side of the nozzle inside the heat block. No way to know if this is the case but I could imagine this might cause clogging problems.----------------------Nov. 6, 2022It's been three weeks now and I've run through 2 Kilo of PLA and probably 3/4 K of PETG. NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM. That would have NEVER happened before. This throat has completely changed my printer for the better!

I mostly invested in this so I can more safely print ASA without worrying about teflon breakdown in my Ender 3V2.POLISI3D offers a few versions of their all metal heatbreaks, and I chose this one because it was not much more expensive than their regular Cu/Ti heatbreak but is also DLC coated. To be honest, I don't know if the DLC coating that's on this version of POLISI3D's bimetallic heatbreak really does much, but from my testing at least it doesn't seem to have hurt.Installation isn't very hard. I preheated the printer, removed the filament and nozzle, undid two bottom screws from the heatblock, turned off the heat and then slowly pulled the heatbreak out. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip and twist the stock heatbreak out of the block because the threads were a bit crusty, but if the block is still warm it shouldn't take much force. Installation is the reverse, and I took this time to measure and cut a new length of teflon tubing. Absolutely MAKE SURE that the nozzle and the new heatbreak is touching and tightened against each other, and make sure the teflon tube is fully seated within the heatbreak. Remember to recheck z-offset before starting a test print.The new heatbreak actually improves performance in some areas. Running a temp tower test, Sunlu PLA used to work best between 210-220 deg C; now, it shows great performance from 195-220 deg C.Running CNCKitchen's volumetric flowrate test, the stock hotend with 0.4mm used to show extrusion issues at 6mm^3/s; now it's somewhere above 10mm^3/s (I need to run another test to find the actual limit).Retraction tower test shows more sensitivity compared to the stock heatbreak, however. At 200 and 210 deg C, retraction settings of between 1-2.2mm works best for my printer, compared to 4.5-6mm before the change. At 220 deg C there is quite a bit of stringing with a narrow value of about 1.5mm that works.Speculation on my part is that the higher volumetric flow, lowered retraction settings means that the heatbreak does a much better job than the stock one at transferring heat to the filament within the block, and it does a much better job concentrating the heat ONLY within the block. Regardless, a nice bonus since I only set out to safely print higher temp materials.

The media could not be loaded. Neptune 3 pro. Printing as good or better as the day that I took it out of the box.I read a comment about it not fitting the Neptune 3 pro- it does. Just install the nozzle all the way before installing the heat break. You want the skinny part to be up out of the heat block.I am not sure if you are to keep the blue plastic inside the printer head with this or not but I did have to cut the blue tube so that it was a tight fit between the bottom of the extruder and the heat break. Maybe a mm or less on the long side so it compresses when it’s all put together. Measure the depth of the heat break into the heat sink with and without the tube and trim the tube down until it is *just barely* longer with the tube. Make sure it is all seated and clamp it down.I did this, used the slice engineering thermal paste on the thermocouple and heating element and I’m very very pleased with how it is printing.Ignore the item in the background of the print video, I oriented it poorly in the slicer but look at that finish on top of the cylinder. It was using ironing on 10% flow. It’s the best I’ve been able to do.

I replaced the old original heatbreak on my printer (an ender 3 pro) with this one. Fit was good, and the length of the heatbreak matched the dimensions of the original. I don't know if more expensive brands work any better or worse; this one seems to do the job just fine.

Used in an flsun super racer. Drop in replacement that works in the original oem hot end.