Packard - DP301202 C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil

The media could not be loaded. Works as it should! I matched it with a Kasa Smart Switch Hs200 and I control the with the app! I set a schedule to run 1 day and another not just for 1 H! I basically I'm saving a lot with this thing with my water heater

This is a great solution to ANY situation where you need to control 240v power within the specs of this gadget. I use it to control power to a 6000w patio heater on a 30a 240v circuit. I control the 110v coil with a fan control countdown switch like you might use on a bathroom fan, but you could use virtually any kind switch you would normally use to control 110v stuff such as a wifi switch, programmable or just on/off.I went through this because my teenaged daughters would turn on the mega heater and then forget to turn it off, leading to global warming! Now they are restricted to 60, 30, 15, 10 and 5 minutes. Switch counts down and then off! 😀 They can always hit the switch again if needed.I was able to mount the contactor and the switch in a double box but i had to find one that works. Some boxes are flat on the bottom and that's what you want. It was a tight fit with 10ga and 14ga wiring.I also hooked up a cool 1" Baomain 240v pilot light to the out side of the contactor to let me see if the heater is in from a distance. The pilot light is LED and I used tiny 20awg wire to connect it. Draws some tiny amount of power and tiny wire works safely.I will say one minor drawback is that the contactor makes an obvious buzzing sound when first connecting but the sound tapers to pretty quiet. It's not silent. It also comes with no connectors or instructions.I'll buy this again for another project.

Used and paired with memo wifi 120v outlet managed by Google home. Works as advertised. I use to manage water heater at remote location so I can keep costs down by only turning on when I leave home. So far so good not to bad a hum. I do have in metal box. Price is reasonable

The height of the switch requires a 4" deep box instead of the normal 2". I ended up using a 6"x6"x4" box so I would have room to attach wires in a safe manner. The 220v rated path can use either wire into a screw clamp or .25" female connectors. However, the 120v switch control connectors are required to be .25" female connectors. I had to run into town and buy some female connectors to complete the wiring. After wiring it works great. The switch connects with a resounding thump that I can hear from outside the pumphouse. I installed it two weeks ago and nothing has burned down yet. :-)

We've had this in use for about 6 years with no issues. It switches on a simple 120V dust collector unit connected to our table saw, so it is overrated for what we need. The way we use it, it cycles on and off more than 10 times per day, so it's probably been through around 20,000 cycles so far. The specs online say it is tested up to 250,000 cycles, so I'm sure it will last for a very long time.

It is an excellent relay, I am controlling my barn lights with it for six years now

OK, so I am really getting into smart home stuff -- we own 10 Alexa (Echo) speakers, about 20 WeMo plugs, and about 10 WeMo light switches. If you walk into our house, Alexa can turn on the lights, water the grass (all 12 stations!), turn the AC (or heat) on/off. Some may say this level of automation is just a fad, but I personally think it really does help make life easier and more fun.With most of my other household systems connected to Alexa, I was looking for a way to do this with my pool pumps. We currently have three pumps: 1.) main filter pump; 2.) spa jets; and 3.) waterfall. We also have a gas heater for the spa, plus lights in the pool and lots of landscape lighting. I did some research and I found there are some solutions from pool-related companies like Hayward, but many of those products involve replacing your entire electrical panel, they are expensive (several grand), and the reviews seem very bad -- many people say their systems break regularly.After looking at my old pool electrical panel, I realized that I could control my pumps with a very simple system -- I just need one WeMo light switch (my panel had blank spaces for 4 switches). The 120v output from each WeMo switch could then be used to control a single relay/contactor for each 240v pump. This is very similar in concept to how your air conditioning compressor turns on/off -- your thermostat sends a low voltage signal to a contactor (relay) inside your compressor unit, and that contactor functions as a switch that sends power to the compressor and fan.Anyway, once I realized how simple this idea was, all I had to do was remove the old 1970-style time clock from my panel (this was easy -- the clock is modular and came out with a couple screws). I also removed an old air-powered switch for my spa jets that never actually worked. Once those parts were removed, I was able to make space for 4 new relays which connect to 4 WeMo light switches. Unfortunately, I was one switch and one contactor short (both have been ordered), so my setup is not yet 100% done. But, all 3 of my pumps are now "smart pumps", and I can turn them on/off from my phone or just by asking Alexa to do it.I've only had this running for a few days, but here's what I can tell you about the contactors -- other than the normal "click" when they first engage, they don't seem to make any noise at all when in operation (if they make any buzzing/humming sound, I can't hear it over the noise from the pumps). Also, I checked the power consumption and since these have 120v coils, the current draw is almost too small to measure -- like barely 1 or 2 watts -- so my WeMo switches are not being pushed very hard powering the contactors.Given the price, I am happy if the contactors last a year or two each, but I'm guessing they'll survive even longer. In the mean time, for less than about $120 total, I now have the option of walking into my house and saying: "Alexa, turn spa jets on..." and poof! Like magic, the spa is bubbling....

Saved me From A Good $1000 job.