Behringer Ultra-Di Di100 Professional Battery/Phantom Powered Di-Box - Xlr

I have been using this for some time but was always getting a hum after connecting this and as soon as I select lift the hum multiplies. I was thinking there is some problem in the mixer and ignoring.Now, since there is no service center no way to get warranty and neither I can take a risk to buy the same to check if that works. I bough a new one (SAMSON passive DI) I am not getting any hum noise any more. Now, to check and confirm I tried to connect the xlr out to my mixer and I got shocked that without even switching it on this device transmits hum which it needs to cut.I will not suggest this.

To be honest i was not absolutely sure what the functions of a DI box were. The main reason i purchased it was to reduce the noise created due impedence by connecting multiple pedals. I have a total of 7 pedals. Though all 7 would not be turned on simultaneously but sometimes i have to use bout 4 pedals at once. So the DI helps in reducing the noise created due to multiple pedals. Since the output is through XLR cable. The sound u get is also balanced.But the noise created due high gain cannot be suppressed with this DI. Don't know bout others. For this price range its a great deal actually. And two instruments can be used at a time, though i wouldn't advice that.It doesn't have a power supply input, so battery required. Doesn't need much power though . at most times it runs on phantom power.

It has done its job. I had a Pyle pro DI, which reduced almost 80% of hum on my ensemble of a mixer, a 75w preamp, Equalizer and 100W front end amp. Now I placed this HD400 just in front of my Guitar like Pros do and it killed all the rest of 20% noise left early. Now on my Line 6 processor, the High Gain with flanger and Tremelo, the Brit tube amp of Slash, was giving problems, when the Fender Twead Ted Nugent and British Clean of Jimmy Hendrix was perfect with no hum. So I reduced the compression on this Slash High Gain Amp model MarshallPlexi and the hum just vanished to give me smooth output. So now the problem is completely solved, I am having a great time with my ensemble of processors and pedals. Thanks, Bheringer for again another satisfaction from your designs.

This product was totally useless for me. You can only exchange and no refund. This was giving me electric shocks so returned it. Now got a new unopened product lying with me. I solved the my hum issue by converting my 2 pin european to 3 pin Indian as soon as the grounding was done issue was solved. This product is totally useless and generates more noise than reduce it.

I am an avid Home Theater fan and recently for my new house, I wanted to explore a Pro-Audio setup. Fundamental reason being , these are cheap. Going through the review of QSC amps (D-Class with DSP) and QSC passive tops and Subs, I concluded that this should be my future setup and I plunged into Pro_audio.I was then faced with an interesting problem, how do I connect the power amps to an A/V receiver plus the receiver would also need XLR outputs?For a 7.2.4 setup, I could only find flagship models ( or dedicated surround processors) which have "pre-outs" and that too RCA type and not XLR.Being flagship models , they were beyond my budget plus the whole idea of buying a "cheaper" pro setup would have been lost. Note that when I say cheaper , it doesn't mean bad sound, The QSC amps have a DSP control and for a home theatre , such sound should be more than enough. I wasn't looking for an Audiophile grade sound anyway.After going through various forums, I came to know that the DI boxes are exactly what I would need. Hence, I bought Behringer 4 channel Active DI-box. Now, I'll be connecting my speaker level output from A/V receiver directly to the DI box and from the DI-box to the QSC power amps.So far haven't physically connected the setup due to some unforeseen delay in construction of my place. Later, I'll post another review how it performs.But to summarize, a pro-Audio setup which could be cheaper can be used in a home theatre by using active DI boxes.

HUM (Ground lift)This box doesn't cancel or eliminate hum/hiss as promised, You press in or press out the ground lift button it will have no effect or change, the irritating hum/hiss will keep on going.4x12 Cabinet simulatorThe simulator works fine, clears out your Distortion tone or i can say it only works as Noise gate, so if you already have a processor which has a noise gate, i suggest not to buy this.

Bought this about a month back and it’s serving its purpose. I’m not technical guy but this was suggested by my friend.If you are in market for direct boxes then you should consider this one. The battery backup is very good.

Very good DI Box for a small price. Used it many times as input for Bass Guitar, acoustic guitar, keyboard in a live sound. The best part is if you forget to buy batteries you can use phantom power from your mixing console (provided your console have it).

Effectively a dual line level passive di box - balanced or unbalanced input, and balanced output. I use several of these to primarily to prevent any "Phantom Power mistakes" (as these will block phantom power), but they have the added benefit of electrically isolating the equipment, balancing an unbalanced signal, and giving the least likelihood of hum.These are for line level equipment - look elsewhere for a direct guitar DI. This box is intended to go between a guitar amplifier / Keyboard / iPod and a PA system.Two audio transformers provide the isolation. This has a "ground lift", the grounds aren't connected between input and output. Nor are they connected between inputs (the two channels are properly isolated).Electrically:- The input Hot and Cold signals (tip and ring) are connected to the shield through 20k resistors, and to a common ground through a 100nF cap (safety for electrostatic). Measured input impedance ~1kohm (between Hot and Cold).- The output Hot and Cold signals (tip and ring) are connected to the shield through 20k resistors, and there is a 10k +1nF cap between them (low pass filter - attenuates above audio frequencies).

Instant fix for home studio mains hum and ground loop problems. I have a small home studio with a mish-mash of old and new, digital and analogue, usb sound card, analogue mixer etc so you can imagine the noise I was getting. Couple of usb over midi analogue synths were causing high pitched ground loop noise and I could see noise on an eq analyser in logic. Fed this into my patchbay using the two ins and outs (1/4 inch or 6.35 mm jack) and can now place it wherever needed in the signal path. Typically ending up between mixer outs and sound card in. Did the trick and now even with multiple USB devices hooked up there is no ground loop, and with many, many power supplies running off the same circuit there is no detectable hum. I tried the cheaper alternatives that look like a ferrite choke with a couple of rca connectors but they didn’t do anything. This was simply inserted into the signal path and sorted it out right away. Amazing for less than thirty pounds. No power required, not even battery powered. Brilliant. Very highly recommended.

I used to think these were placebo devices until I decided to purchase one for the sake of science. For the price of £18 it was worth the risk.Essentially, most of our speaker cables and particularly analogue RCA signal cables (such as from your CD player to your amp) act like antennas, picking up that annoying 50 / 60 Hz hum and other electrical noise that come through.This completely removed 90% of the inteference (hiss/hum) electrical sounds from my mix. I had RCA outputs from my Asus STX soundcard going into my Soundcraft Sig 12 and everytime I would turn up the headphones connected to it I would get a very distinct annoying hum previously. After purchasing the relevant 1/4" TRS cables I attached this in the chain and the noise reduced.The filtration system in this cuts out at least 90% of noise, and the difference is quite dramatic. The easy way to test this is as follows: Play a song from your computer through RCA outputs and pause it. Then (while the song is paused), crank up the volume on your amplifier. You'll likely hear a buzzing sound that is electromagnetic noise being amplified. Next, plug your hum destroyer and repeat the test - prepare to be amazed!I guess to completely remove 100% of the hum a power conditioner is needed too, these can range from £35 to hundrerds of pounds.

This HD400 is well made and does reduce earth induced hum, but unfortunately it also degrades sound quality considerably. So if you can reduce hum by adding a new ground etc to components, this is far better. My Hi res audio and flac files sounded like Mp3 s again so for me its not acceptable. I put this in cupboard and forgot about it until I upgraded some equipment. Got some bad feedback so thought I'd try it again. This time it cleared the hum AND had no effect on sound quality! So I thought I had best update this review. It seems as with much equipment its possibly the interconnects and where its used in the circuit as to the effect it has, so I humbly eat my words and say give it a try and experiment... its helped me this time around.

DI boxes (I think it stands for Direct Inject, but I've also heard them called Direct Input) allow an unbalanced signal or any impedence that may be coming from an instrument, a microphone or another audio source, to be converted to a balanced microphone-level signal suitable for your mixing desk. This Behringer DI Box is fairly large (perhaps 6 inches square and three inches deep) in a rugged steelcase with outsized rubber bumpers. Its design gives you confidence that it will just work, and indeed it does, taking its power from the mixing desk (you can add a PP9 9 Volt battery if you wish, but it shouldn't be needed).The inputs are quarter inch jack or XLR (note that these are unbalanced, so only one signal pin is connected - if you have a balanced audio source, like most microphones, you don't need a DI Box). There's a pass through quarter inch jack, so you can also plug into a monitor amp or something similar. There are also two attenuator buttons, that drop the signal level by -20 dB or -40dB. On the back there's the balanced XLR output and a "ground lift" button, which can eliminate buzz and hum if you have two grounding points in circuit. There's also the door to the battery compartment, a red LED to show you the device is receiving phantom power from the mixing desk, and another unlabelled button that the instruction leaflet claims to be a speaker cabinet simulator. It is nothing of the sort - the leaflet is wrong. It's the on-off power button for the internal battery. I haven't tried using that one. If you want cabinet effects, try the Behringer Ultra-G instead.The idea is that you have the DI Box (or boxes - I use two) on stage or in the performance area, and the balanced XLR cable back to the mixing desk can be as long as you like, within reason, as having a positive and negative signal means that any induced interference cancels out, giving a nice clean signal at the desk. The boxes stack nicely - they don't clip together, but they rest on top of each other quite comfortably.The Behringer DI Boxes (this one and the Ultra-G) are way more stylish than most of the alternatives. Behringer also does a 2-channel stereo box, the DI20, but I like the look and feel of this one so much more, and I want the flexibility to place them separately, so I prefer to have two DI 100s.I'd hesitate to use this DI Bix if you don't have phantom power - what if the battery runs out mid-performance? Other than that, they're a great choice.