DMTD4E 4-Inch Dia-Sharp Extra-Fine Sharpener - Clear

Great for sharpening ski edges and a good price

Thank you

The DMT D4C appeared to have uneven particle size across the surface. Finer at the ends and rougher in the middle. I returned it so don't know how it worked.

I was expecting better quality from DMT

Straight as a banana. Just a horribly made tool. No.

I bought this at a deep discount and at that price it represents excellent value, at regular price I'm not so sure but it does seem to be a good stone for all those hand-held sharpening tasks. In my case its primary purpose was for putting a keen edge on lathe cutting tools (both HSS and carbide) without needing to dismount the tool. It's also useful for items like scissors and fine forceps. For large knife blades you really want to use a larger bench stone because it is more difficult to maintain the correct cutting angle with such a small stone held in your hand. One thing to bear in mind with any diamond stone - don't press the tool too hard onto the diamond surface! Let the diamonds do the work, they will cut just fine with a light touch. If you press too hard you will crush the diamonds and maybe even strip them from the surface, there isn't really much holding them in place other than electro-plating. By all means use water as a lubricant, whilst it's not needed to cut metal it does help clear the dust away and prevent clogging the stone. Just wash and dry the stone after use. This particular stone is a handy size but you may prefer to glue it onto an aluminium handle (just a length of flat barstock) with the advantage then of a better grip (for maintaining accurate cutting angles) and also the ability to use the entire cutting surface more effectively. This replaces my old eze-lap hone which finally lost its ability to cut, hope this lasts as long.

A few years ago I decided I wanted to get really good at sharpening knives, so I practiced practiced practiced until I was. It took a while, because I was absolutely terrible at it when I started, but I've finally reached the point where I'll put my free hand edges sharpened on a $50 DMT up against anything a $500 (or more) vice grip system can produce. Of course, I've probably spent that much and more on different varieties of whetstones, but I consider that an investment in education as much as anything. The point is, I have and I use many different stones to sharpen many different knives, but the whetstones I reach for most often are the DMT continuous grit bench stones. They are simply the most effective way to sharpen high-quality blades made from modern super steels, which are just too hard for grandpappy's old Arkansas stone. Those things worked fine 75 years ago when 420 was the best knife blade steel, but modern processes mean even decidedly mid-tier steels like D2 or 440C are being hardened up to 58-60 HRC, and top of the line steels like 20CV or S90V are at least 60-62, and frequently even harder. Diamond stones are the best and by far the quickest way to sharpen those very hard super steels, and DMT sharpeners are the best diamond stones on the market. They're always flat, they don't require any preparation to use--some people like to wet them a little, but they work just fine dry--and the swarf can be cleaned out of them with a simple pencil eraser, and once that's done they're as good as new. I own extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine, and extra-extra fine stones, but I usually only need two or three of those, depending upon how dull the edge is and how toothy I want the finished product to be. It can be fun to sharpen an edge all the way through the extra-extra fine grit, then turn it into a mirroe using stops loaded with diamond paste, but I've found that many, even most blades perform better without such a fine edge. Using the coarse stone to create a bur, the fine stone to smooth it off, and finishing with a leather strop loaded with green honing compound is usually the best procedure, and if you're investing in DMT stones for the first time, a coarse and a fine stone will be enough to handle just about every sharpening job (I recommend at least the 8" variety,although the 10" are even better if you can afford them. Also, get a leather strop). Yes, it's true that high quality water stones will produce sharper, more durable edges than diamond stones, but water stones are unforgiving: if you don't find the exact right angle and hold it through every stroke you'll find your blade duller than when you started, and possibly with the bevel messed up if you keep at it for long enough. And besides requiring the most skill to use, water stones, the good ones anyway, are quite expensive, and easily dish--become uneven--if you're not careful, something you never have to worry about with DMT stones. Maybe one day I'll be a good enough free-hand sharpener that I'll exclusively use natural Japanese water stones from underwater mines that they stopped quarrying 100 years ago, but in the meantime, I'm going to stick with my DMT stones. And leather stops. Seriously, finishing with a strop make a world of difference no matter which grit you end off with.

wasn't 27,31 x 8,26 x 5,72 cm as the product information told me.

Non posso dare 5 stelle perché le dimensioni sono errate, ma questa marca di pietre diamantate sono di ottima qualità. Le uso spesso in cucina per affilare i coltelli. Le dimensioni reali sono di 10,2 per 2,1 cm. Le dimensioni contenute vanno bene da tenere in cucina, ma non pensare che si tratta di una pietra grande.

Questa pietra diamantata é di ottima qualità. La tengo in cucina per affilare i miei coltelli e la uso con un po' di lavavetri. L'unica pecca è che é piccola. Le dimensioni nella descrizione sono errate. La pietra é 10,2 per 2,1 cm. Una pietra piccola é comoda in cucina, ma ripeto, la descrizione é errata

Wenn man den Winkel gut hält und mit der Größe zurecht kommt, sind die Messer in wenigen Sekunden wieder scharf.