Hitachi 371468 Soft Start C10Rj Part

Like others, my Dewalt Miter saw would regularly trip my 20A breaker on startup - most likely due to a high rush-current. Once I figured out the wiring, the install was simple. On my saw, the 'trigger' unit has 4 wires connected to it. Black and blue on the left, red and yellow on the right. The black wire is the power to the motor. I disconnected this black wire from the switch, and connected the slow-start module in between -- the brown wire going to the switch/trigger, and the black wire to the motor wire we just disconnected. Finally, the blue wire on the module connects to the clump of white wires on the saw. I attached the module to the underside of the handle. I drilled a small hole for the wires to run into the handle, and used an existing, unused hole on the bottom as the screw hole to attach the module. I did have to extend the wire on the module so that it had enough length to reach the switch/trigger connection.

Makes a huge difference in the startup of my Dewalt 7491 table saw. Would have been nice if it came with connectors (had to purchase separately) and/or a piece of matching wire for the splice. The heat sink makes it a little more challenging to fit everything in the switch box, but it's worth the effort. Wish I had known about soft start modules a LONG time ago.

I ordered a couple of these Hitachi Soft Start modules to retrofit my table saw and shop vac. They're rated for 15A which is more than enough for my tools and unlike cheaply build no-name modules it has heavy 16ga wire and a heat sink to dissipate the heat generated from being in-line with the motor. Wiring the module into my saw was really easy - I just added some spade connectors and a Y adapter on neutral so I could insert it into the existing wiring without modifying the saw.The saw still starts pretty fast, much faster than the no-name module I had to use for my miter saw, but slower and quieter than it used to be.Best of all this authentic Hitachi part was less expensive than the no-name modules! Honestly I would have preferred to use one of these in my miter saw also but with the heat sink it was too big to fit.

Worked for my DEWALT DWE7485 8-1/4 in. Table saw. What can I say, it did it's job. Hope I wired it up correctly, since I purchased 2 other modules that didn't work at all.

Soft Start Did Not Work As Described. I connected this soft starter to a 1/2 HP, 10A (run), induction motor. The work load is only about 1/3 of it's full load capacity, 3.8A. Using two clamp on amp meters I checked peak amps before and after connecting the soft-start. I ran about 10 different tests. There was no significant difference between using it and not using it. I also connected my shop-vac to it and checked the peak amps before and after. No significant difference. I couldn't even hear a difference in the sound of the shop-vac when it started.I also checked an incandescent lamp to see if I could see a ramp in the brightness of the bulb when it was turned on, and I couldn't tell a difference. BTW, I used two peak capture amp meters, and I tested two different soft-start modules. I triple checked my wiring. Finally, I discovered the built-in Potentiometer and turned it 1/2 turn CCW to increase the on-delay time and it worked.

I have a Ryobi contractor's saw that bucked like crazy when starting up. This fixed the problem and it now comes up to speed like a normal motor. Thanks to Mr. Stukov for the great wiring diagram on his video! The diagram on the device was not clear.

Relatively straightforward to install electrically. The other reviews gave enough directions. The issues are just how to physically include the device, but removing a bit of plastic for the heatsink to pop out was the only thing i needed to do.The functionality is a clear removal of that first big 'thunk' as the 12" blade spins up. It is still a quick start, but quick as in 1 second, not quick as in hell for leather. Took about 30 minutes to add it until it was all enclosed again.

I had a Bauer brand Harbor Freight chop saw. It worked for a few months, and then started tripping my 20amp breaker everytime I pulled the trigger. I was right in the middle of a big project and so I tried many different outlets and circuits and sure enough it kept tripping any of the 20A breakers. The only way I could finish the project was to use a long and really too small of an extension cord. I'm assuming it acted like a big resistor and could get the saw started softer. When I was done with the project, I took the saw back to Harbor Freight and explained the problem and they gave me a brand new one. Well, this one was even worse. Even with no blade on it at all, it would trip the breaker on start up. I started digging and found this fix for other saws, so I decided to try it on my Bauer. It works! See pics of how I got it in there. A little trimming with a dremel and it fits in there very snugly. Easy to wire. Cut the wire that goes from the switch to the motor. Hook the brown wire to the wire coming from the switch. Hook the black wire to the wire going to the motor. Hook the blue wire to neutral. Easy. I spent more time trying to get it to fit and look nice than I did anything else. Motor starts smooth now!