Cherry Wood Veneer Plain Sliced/Flat Cut Peel and Stick 3M9505 24"x96" Sheet A Grade Veneer Face -Easy Application with a self Adhesive for Any Restoration

Purchased to rehab a fish tank cabinet I got from a friend. It came as described. Product was rolled up in a box, had to leave it sit on a flat surface for a few days to flatten out. Definitely recommend the preglued veneer, much easier to work with. Very little defect in the wood was about 98% usable. Only other issue I had was in the corners, where the veneer comes together on the cabinet, the stain would build up and it released the glue. After it sits a bit I'm gonna try some super glue, I don't fee like this is going to be an issue, but just an FYI make sure all areas of the wood are adhered before adding oil stain. (I was also able to roll this onto rounded edges, as some had asked about. I let it sit for a few days with a slight bend in it to help mold it before applying.)

It was easy to install without help. It adhered well without one bubble and it stained beautifully. This product is the perfect answer to "refinishing" the top of any furniture.

A tricky to use product as it comes in a roll and must be unrolled and flatten with weights for a few days prior to use. I've used three rolls that look great when adhered and stained and waxed. There are numerous linear "bubbles" where the backing has separated from the product. This could be a function of shipping this in the winter.

Positives:No nasty contact cement to deal with. Just stick it down. You do have to use your noggin when using this product as alignment BEFORE you start to roll it out is imperative as, when you remove the backing and push it down, it's stuck for good. Remove the backing a bit at a time and then use a J-roller to remove any bubbles. If you get a bubble, slit it with a razor blade along the grain, roll it out with the J-roller, and all is well.Cons:This "cherry" is sort of a flesh color (at east mine was). I did put it in the sun after application and it did seem to turn browner, but it's not like other products I've used. Time will tell as cherry is photosensitive. I did finish it with Deft lacquer so it did finish out nicely.The sheet had three defects right smack dab in the center of it both lengthwise and widthwise. Yes, wood is imperfect I get it. But who was the knucklehead that decided to use pink bondo to fill them in? Wood filler yes. Bondo? No. I solved the problem with some masking tape to protect the open wood surrounding the defects and a stain pen. Pink no more. But, seriously... don't use polyester filler on wood. That's just plain dumb.Look very carefully at the back of the material before you count on using it. I needed nearly the entire 24" width for my project and the "stick-um" on the back wasn't applied end to end. It was on crooked.... with a gap on one side then the other.... another production flaw. I was able to position it so it wasn't an issue for me but just a caveat.The adhesive backing makes for interesting times with your router. The adhesive has a tendency to goo up your router bit faster than contact cement.... and it's a little less cooperative about coming off. I had a can of denature alcohol nearby and it worked fine to remove it.... just have some solvent on hand to clean off your bit and bearing in the event you get globitis.The veneer is dry.... so dry that it sucked up the finish (Deft wood finish lacquer) to the point where it nearly dried on contact. I can usually get away with 4 coats on *real* wood but this stuff took nearly double that amount and a lot of steel wool rubouts in between coats to provide a smooth finish. It did come out fine in the end, but behaved differently than other veneer products I've used. Point? If you're rattle can finishing, make sure you have more product on hand than you think you'll need.

TL;DR; Reason for 5 stars: It is cherry wood with contact cement pre-applied. I got exactly what I ordered... what more can I ask.Long-winded rambling follows... apologies to any English profs in the audience... I abuse ellipsis points.I've never done any kind of veneering before. I did it now in order to finish off a stereo-speaker project. I took a leap and got this stuff. I watched some youtube videos. I did my best to plan my project. I drew lines and cut out pieces... 'rugged' scissors turned out to be easier for me to use vs a razor knife. I mean those types of scissors that have thick blades and a very solid pivot point... not the little roundy-looking ones you had in 2nd grade made out of stamped steel. Get good scissors. I got some from Lowes.. like $10. They probably can be had on amaze-a-zon for $3.Anyway... measure-measure-cut. Clean the target spot of debris. Peel the paper off.. be very careful lining up your veneer with the panel b/c the glue on these is FOR.EVER. You will totally ruin a piece if you try to peel it back off to move it (if you fully stuck it down I mean).I don't know if this is the approved way to do this.. but I would only peel a small portion of the backer off... line up the parts.. -lightly- tack down a corner.. check it all.. lightly tack another... check it all again... then if it looked right, commit and hammer down: peel off the rest of the backer from 'under' the veneer as I push it down with my hand to the project. I used one of those roller-things you will see in the 'suggested add-on items' list.Being that I'm a noob at veneering... I am not really qualified to rate the quality of the wood itself other than to say, to my eye, it looked great. I got cherry, and yep.. it is cherry wood. A pro may have a different take.. but for me, it looks exactly like what I was expecting. I have no reason to doubt that it is the exact thickness that they claim it is... it is not paper thin, and the grain in the wood is deep enough to 'move' in the light.. which is all I was looking for.No one is going to mistake this stuff for vinyl veneer.. which is what I was considering before getting this stuff. Very glad I got this stuff.I'll say this... applying the veneer was far easier than I feared, but it wasn't a job a 10yr old could do either. It would have to be a very talented 10yr old anyway. I'm covering for the fact that my 10yr old self could never have managed it.Really though... the veneering process was actually easier for me than lacquering the stuff later has proven. That's on me though, I could never color inside the lines either... painting with 'clear stuff' is tougher (for me) than it sounded I guess. I couldn't tell how much I was putting on at times and got some lumpy/gloppy spots. So, a lot of sanding is in my future.You want wood veneer with glue already applied?.. get this stuff... you'll get what you ordered.

This is an easy to use and great looking veneer. have to be careful not to tear it while cutting to size, but otherwise happy with the purchase. the flat panel cabinet doors I made stained and finished really well.